CARB compliant fuel cans (plastic)

[bigb]

This has been discussed before but I can't finds the old thread, what fuel cans (plastic) are you finding that don't leak, or what modifications are you doing to make them like pre-CARB cans? I found the $25 Harbor Freight Midwest can to be reasonable, I am able to use it so far with no leaking although it is painfully slow putting 5 gallons into a vehicle. It is also less than 6 months old and have only used it twice. On the other hand my more expensive Blitz always leaks and this weekend on the road the vent plunger fell of and went to the bottom making it useless, fortunately I was able to screw on the cheap HF spout and empty it that way. I saw some kits where you install a new fill tube and a vent, my concern is the vent leaking while offroad on rough trails etc. (I am using diesel so no worries about the rapid expansion of gasoline here).

[Louie1961]

I have had good luck with E-Z pour brand spout replacement kits. The trick is to NOT drill the hole for the vent cap too large. You want that vent cap to be difficult to install, so it retains a snug fit. I have had to use a rubber mallet on them to get them to seat properly. But if you do that right, these have never leaked on me. Look for the kit with two caps (usually one black and one yellow). One of the two caps will likely fit your can and the other will not. I am not sure if they have different thread sizes or what, but its been the case for me where one always works and the other leaks. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-pour

I think the instructions call for a 1/2 inch drill bit but I used a 31/64 inch bit for a tighter seal. At one time the instructions for these actually recommended a 31/64 inch size bit, but at some point they changed the instructions.

[Louie1961]

Also, make sure you place the vent cap above the max fill line of the can you choose, and better to seat it on a flat surface rather than say the round part of a handle. Its also good to avoid the mold seam as your site for inserting the vent.

[metalman21]

I don’t know who thought having that stupid spout and no vent was a good (safety?) idea.
My fix is to install a small tire valve stem up top behind the handle with the valve removed. Then use the cap to seal it. The other modification is to remove the spring in the spout.
To use it you lock the spout open, remove the cap and it pours pretty normal without having to push the spout to keep it open. There are a bunch of Utube videos of this. Simple, cheap and it works.

[bigb]

Thanks Louie I will order the high flow version.

[davec]

No-Spill cans are very well made and work well. Only downside is having to hold your thumb on the button, which gets old, but I drilled a hole through the plastic shroud behind the button, so I push the button now, then slide a drill bit or rod through the hole to hold the button open. Obviously only do this if you KNOW you can empty the full can without overflowing your tank.

[Bob E.]

I just bought one of those plastic midwest cans for about ten bucks less at TSC a while ago. I found it worked fine if I waited for it to glug but leaked from between the telescoping spout when I added a vent. So, I pulled the spout in half did a little trimming to make everything round and slipped a piece of vinyl hose between both sides. Pretty happy with it now.



Those ez pour spouts worked great for about a year or two, but If I wasn't careful when tightening the lid the flimsy flange at the base of the spouts would get misshapen, And/or the thin rubber gaskets would tear. Then they would leak from under the cap when pouring. Menards has a knockoff version for five bucks that suffers from the same problems. I also had the same trouble with those vents, wrapped a little bit of teflon tape around the part that pops into the can to make them fit tighter in the half inch holes. Seems to work.

[CAVEMANN]

I've used the replacement spouts from TSC for years, they work great, I'v also gutted some of the "safety" spouts, added some hose and used a crutch tip or something similar for a cap, I think I have 2 like that that have been in service for 5 years or more. Whoever came up with the "safety can" & spout ideas has really got it together, the damn things are 100% safe because they're 100% unusable!

[bigb]

The E-Z Pour kit arrived today and the Blitz can is fixed and ready for my next trip. One thing I'd like is a screw on cap so I can transport without the filler tube in place as it limits where I can put the can (I have a shelf across the back of my topper where I store the cans inside milk crates). That's one good thing about the Midwest cans, the filler stores inside the can.

[farmersammm]

https://shop.pricetronic.com/search?...V2X0Wup2HeD2Sj

[Broccoli1]

We are not allowed to have any plastic fuel containers on set/location.

LA Fire dept wants them all to be metal.

[CAVEMANN]

We are not allowed to have any plastic fuel containers on set/location.

LA Fire dept wants them all to be metal.

That's not a bad thing, I've had several plastic ones develop seam leaks for no apparent reason.

[bigb]

I'd really like some Rotopax but not paying $100 for each 2 gallons.

[MetalMan23]

I have had good luck with E-Z pour brand spout replacement kits. The trick is to NOT drill the hole for the vent cap too large. You want that vent cap to be difficult to install, so it retains a snug fit. I have had to use a rubber mallet on them to get them to seat properly. But if you do that right, these have never leaked on me. Look for the kit with two caps (usually one black and one yellow). One of the two caps will likely fit your can and the other will not. I am not sure if they have different thread sizes or what, but its been the case for me where one always works and the other leaks. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-pour

I think the instructions call for a 1/2 inch drill bit but I used a 31/64 inch bit for a tighter seal. At one time the instructions for these actually recommended a 31/64 inch size bit, but at some point they changed the instructions.

You beat me to it

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[CAVEMANN]

I'd really like some Rotopax but not paying $100 for each 2 gallons.

Yeah but the "cool" factor is worth it! NOT I used to have several metal GI jerry cans & I really liked them, I think I still have 1 or 2 floating around somewhere. My daughter-in-law works security on an air base & one of the flight crews left her them a BUNCH of ammo cans, she asked me if I wanted any, I think she got 12 total 4 big ones & 8 more little ones, I think they're all 7.62.

[_Weldman_]

Here, you're welcome/
https://wavianusa.com/products/wavian-jerry-can-od-green

[52 Ford]

Here, you're welcome/
https://wavianusa.com/products/wavian-jerry-can-od-green

Hard to go wrong with them. My neighbor gave me one a few years ago. I haven't used it 'cause he said the coating inside needed to be stripped and redone. Think it's an import/"reproduction" can that didn't have any primer under the inside paint.

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[arcflash]

I know I have spilled more fuel will those spill resistant nozzles than I ever did with the old cans.

[SweetMK]

I know I have spilled more fuel will those spill resistant nozzles than I ever did with the old cans.

AND, because of that, I have just last week purchased my second VP Racing fuel jug.



Between those jugs, and the filter funnel, I am MUCH better off than any other under 10 gallon fuel container that I have seen,,,



I still do not understand how that filter stops water, but, it lets fuel pass on through,,

Anyone know how it works??

[Broccoli1]

Water is heavier than gasoline.

[SweetMK]

Water is heavier than gasoline.

True, but, if you fill the funnel with water,, nothing comes out of the bottom!!

[bigb]

AND, because of that, I have just last week purchased my second VP Racing fuel jug.



Between those jugs, and the filter funnel, I am MUCH better off than any other under 10 gallon fuel container that I have seen,,,



I still do not understand how that filter stops water, but, it lets fuel pass on through,,

Anyone know how it works??

Pretty sure the water settles into that little recession in the bottom that doesn't drain out. I have one of those and it works great but if you have a lot of water it will not be able to separate all of it out once the little recessed part fills with water, you'll have to do multiple pours or separate the bulk of the water out another way. People giving reviews complained that the little recession didn't drain without understanding that's where the water droplets go. That little bit in the recession is supposed to be "disposed of in a responsible way". I keep a clear glass jar for testing fuel and pour it in there, if no water droplets visible I then pour it into the tank.

People also complained about the VP jugs leaking but it sounds like your experience has been good?

[bigb]

True, but, if you fill the funnel with water,, nothing comes out of the bottom!!

Did you actually try that?

[52 Ford]

True, but, if you fill the funnel with water,, nothing comes out of the bottom!!

Surface tension is different between gasoline and water. If you put some pressure behind it, the water would pass through. Gasoline has less surface tension (think of filling a drinking glass completely with water and the water actually comes up PAST the top of the glass without spilling over).

Edit: just a guess..

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[frieed]

I'd guess the filter is hydrophobic