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John T

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Without getting into the whole story, I'll just cut to the chase

Strange engineering sells parts to make your own driveshaft

So as I'm looking
The tubing is chrome Moly (3" OD X .083)
And they sell 2 types of end yolks

Forged chrome moly
And
Cast iron

Of course, the forged is twice the price, but
What I found interesting was in the sidenotes they recommend MIG welding for the cast iron

And TIG welding for the forged moly

No mention of what type of TIG filler material or if it has to be heat treated

ER4130 ???

And as far as the cast iron end yolks
MIG WELDING??

I mean, I've repaired cast-iron, hot and fast with Mig .... but nothing I would consider critical.

There has been many discussions on this board about Welding cast iron
As a whole ...

But moly to cast?

Discuss amongst yourselves.

I am enjoying a natty daddy right now


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Let me begin by disqualifying myself. I've never owned a big horsepower machine. Power Wagon is 110 HP. The Top Kick I've been plagued with driveshaft problems is 250 HP.
Once I run the torque numbers after gear reduction, I expect my driveshafts are in torque comparable numbers.

I've never considered, nor has anyone mentioned cast iron in yokes. I've had a few worked on, one a few times, no mention of it being a difficult weld. Those I have paid for were ALL done with MIG. The Top Kick has always been a shake problem. The builder was off .058", I think that is a total run out, he was .029 off center. The well respected driveshaft specialist used the same weld techniques, but were more careful to be centered. They added tiny balance weights to the shaft.

I've never pondered the what should I weld it with question. Knowing only what I know now, I'd TIG with 308 filler.
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
I would go with the chrome moly yoke. Chrome moly shouldn't need heat treating, just the correct filler rod. I have my doubts about welding cast iron.
Yeah exactly

Strange engineering has quite a good reputation for many many years putting out Driveline parts

But I found the Welding recommendation quite concerning

But looking at the stock driveshaft ...
It does appear that the end yoke could be cast
?

View attachment IMG_1245.jpg


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Discussion starter · #6 ·
I actually only need an extra 1" on the shaft..... another thought was to find a proper tube with a 3" ID to use as a sleeve.....

and cut my shaft in half and space it out 1" and weld it. DONE.

a really doubt any inconsistency in a circumference weld would throw off balance...

??
 
I seriously doubt that the yokes are cast iron, I'd bet on cast steel.
 
I actually only need an extra 1" on the shaft..... another thought was to find a proper tube with a 3" ID to use as a sleeve.....

and cut my shaft in half and space it out 1" and weld it. DONE.

a really doubt any inconsistency in a circumference weld would throw off balance...

??
This is one thing I would just take to a good driveline shop and have it done right. I've had the rear of a Roadranger trans trashed from an out of balance driveshaft and I bet that Ford transfer case isn't near that tough.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
This is one thing I would just take to a good driveline shop and have it done right. I've had the rear of a Roadranger trans trashed from an out of balance driveshaft and I bet that Ford transfer case isn't near that tough.
Yeah
Ive had one made in the past

But It wasnt cheap

... anyway,
If I did extend / sleeve it OR make my own
I could always take it down an have it balanced.
For a fraction of the price.


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Discussion starter · #12 ·
Ok
Now if you really want to call me crazy...

I was also pondering the idea of adding 1" to the slip yoke going into the transfer case ...



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Ok
Now if you really want to call me crazy...

I was also pondering the idea of adding 1" to the slip yoke going into the transfer case ...



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Behind me in the office is a slip joint eliminator for a lifted Jeep. I'd have to have you talk with my son, He is a wealth of information on the subject. What is available for a Jeep I wonder if it is available for a Ford.
 
Behind me in the office is a slip joint eliminator for a lifted Jeep. I'd have to have you talk with my son, He is a wealth of information on the subject. What is available for a Jeep I wonder if it is available for a Ford.
Not sure about right now, but I know Jeep guys used to get transmissions and T cases out of 80's F series trucks... I think the really desirable transmission was the BW T18 or T19. Going off memory, I think the Ford version of those transmissions have a lower first gear than the one Chrysler was using. It's something like 7:1.

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Do it right the first time, pull the original measure cut off the parts that are in good service, clean them up, measure a new tube line it up correctly don’t think you will have any issues welding it back together. Runout is probably worse on a shaft than balancing unless it’s on a high speed or racing’s truck

if the old parts are damaged or worn replace with new
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Behind me in the office is a slip joint eliminator for a lifted Jeep. I'd have to have you talk with my son, He is a wealth of information on the subject. What is available for a Jeep I wonder if it is available for a Ford.
Slip joint eliminator/JEEP
is so you can run a Double cardon joint in the back just like the front.

Helps with lifted vehicles.

I almost did that with my jeep but ended up dropping the transfer case 1"

Also nice feature for jeep is,
If you bust a rear shaft ... u can use the front as temp replacement to get home ....
Same shaft.


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