do you have enough material for several pairs? or at least two pair?

 

Enough for one pair.

 

"they" [emoji849]say ideal height is 26-32" but perhaps higher for those over 6' tall

probably depends on what type of work do you do

I thought, if perhaps you had enough material, you could make two pair of different heights to accommodate differ situations


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"they" [emoji849]say ideal height is 26-32" but perhaps higher for those over 6' tall

probably depends on what type of work do you do

I thought, if perhaps you had enough material, you could make two pair of different heights to accommodate differ situations

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Stand with your arm relaxed and hanging down, make a fist. From your knuckles to the ground is the optimum height according to an old blacksmith I knew, He said it holds true for anvils also. Built a few on that advice, seems to work for me.

 

24" tall and 47" wide

Dave

 

I had wondered about the knuckle height rule. I used that for my anvil stand and it worked well so I’ll try it again and see.
I never seem to do the same kind of work twice in a row. One time it’s fabricating or fixing something, the next it’s tearing apart or parting something…..wood, steel, old, new….you can never tell what craziness I’m going to get into.

 

How about same height as welding table?

 

Dunno about that.... seems a little tall for a sawhorse... might be a pain to store. If it was all woodwork I'd be tempted to subtract the height of the skilsaw from the anvil height...

 

Don't overthink it. 29 inches tall.


These are what we used when I was working for someone else doing construction. Worked fine. Nice having them low for working on big stuff, but they aren't so low that they they're inconvenient.

https://www.acmetools.com/fulton-co...BhA2EiwAuUwWZSwT6-Tm8nzZiBqEKpdu9FjbxRbOauhX1rZhmSsifsAdE_FuWlcFohoCp-AQAvD_BwE

Edit: picture...

 

That's unbelievable....the steel sawhorses got a California Prop 65 warning and the only things in them is steel and zinc. I entered zinc and steel in the Prop 65 website and neither was listed.

 

I told yall about the brick chisel, right?

Bought a new Mayhew brick chisel a while back. One of the ones with the big orange guard thing on it. Big ol sticker on it "WARNING: CANCER". Fortunately, in a Gemini... and I don't have any intention of eating that chisel.

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My woodworking sawhorses are about 8” taller than my welding sawhorses.

 

taller sawhorses come in handier than you can imagine

i work alone so being creative is important to get things done.

in this pic i used the forklift and placed the gluelam beam bench top onto the (tall) sawhorses

i then lifted the i-beam base UP and removed the sawhorses to finish my project.

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On the word v. metal thought, might be worth allowing a couple height adjustments. Maybe 24", 30" and 36". A pair of half inch bolts and ny-locks at each end should handle most reasonable loads.

My 30" folding steel saw horses are really low when I weld something that I need to be careful with.

Cheers, Alan

 

My experience is that for maximum power (e.g. heavy hammering, hand planing or sawing) a lower height is best (perhaps as low as 32" if you are short). Compared to finer detail work that benefits from a higher height (perhaps up to 40" if you are tall).

 

For general fabrication, a sawhorse need only be tall enough to be able to get under anything on it, in order to weld from the underside.

Want something at a comfortable height, make a work table. A sawhorse needs to be short enough to support tall projects at a reasonable height. Consider your height limitations of your ceiling, and lifting devices.

View attachment chute7.jpg It doesn't take long to go from this................................

View attachment chute35.jpg To this...................

Don't shoot yourself in the foot by building a saw horse that's too high. The purpose isn't to be comfortable(welding is never comfortable)......it's to support a variety of weldments of various heights.

 

How can you do that without a blanch ground bench?
But,,, something I like or value as much or more than super flat bench is decent flat floor. I was going to pull out the level and check just how good it is. Maybe even benchmark a couple spots. I know a 20 ft trailer sitting on 4 same jackstands and cant see it out of plane. My eye is really fine for twist and level, square.

 

Lis, I did one for a bud similar back in the day, cut an arch out ot the web made it look like bridge and gave it "legs". We had 2 heavy steel wheels we put on bolt/rod axel and a spot for the automotive floor jack in the other end. Was heavy like that with 6 inch plank and a shelf added for brace. We put a heavy vise on the non wheel end, just set on some 1/2 plates or maybe railroad plates, what they called? There was couple hundred # of steel in each end alone maybe, was stuff he hauled home and had a bud with a mill.
I came along to assemble and weld a little, he put a heavy plate and a super vise on the end. Was kind of nice and so heavy didnt need to be bolted. He had a home planned for it but didnt want to get away from pulling it out, moved really easy without any gadgets. The framework could have been twin to yours.
I wish we had pics like this back then, would have had quite a portfolio for this.

 

makethem xtra tall than u think (easier on back). easy to shorten them if u dont like it

 

Could make the legs adjustable.

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I like Suskat's idea of the multiple pin holes for adjustable lengths ... sort of turns it into a "one size fits all"...

 

Even if you used some sort of bolted connection for the legs, it's probably going to be a "set and forget" deal. Get them to a comfortable height and leave them there until you run into an odd-ball project that requires really tall or really short saw horses.

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