Resistance of connectors is going to be hard to measure.
Even with a milliohmmeter. A better way might be to
measure voltage drop across the connector while welding.
Or just pick a connector and use it. I use Lenco without
Problems.

 

Measuring resistance, would not have much to do with amperage or heat build up, I believe.
Even if there was only one strand of a copper cable left, it will test good, under no load.
The only way to test that would be to back probe, with a powered line.

 

I went with Dinse because they were the lower cost alternative, but there's a lot of variation in the styles between different suppliers. It's not a big deal, you just have to do a little grinding to make them fit, but if I was going to do it again, I would probably go with one of the other 2 for that reason alone...

 

I've noticed that also with DINSE, it seems the difference is in the locking lug/tang. It would be hard to change as DINSE seems to almost be industry standard on most machines these days. Both of my older machines (CRAFTSMAN & MIDSTATES) have tapered pin connectors, I think they would be the ideal connector as long as the tapers match well. A DINSE style with a slight taper & the lug would be great if tolerances were kept so there's very tight tolerances, push it in give it a turn and the lug could pull the taper snug, it could also serve to unlock the taper to remove the connector.

 

good question, its something that pondered in my mind also. i look at it as which type connection gives the most surface contact and size. therefore when option on machine, i go w/ "tweco#2". then the machines i got w/o it, i make adapters to go directly to tweco2,. i tery to kkep as much the same/interchangeable as conveniently possible. i also like the feel when they interlock, more so than the others

 

I've pretty much stuck with the #4 Tweco connectors, mainly because I run mostly 1/0 cables and I like the double setscrew connections, an occasional trip around the male end with a wire wheel on a cordless drill and a shotgun brush on the drill to shine up the female is a good thing.

 

About 2times a year or more depending on how much I have welded, I take apart my stingers and cut back the black until clean copper as no matter how tight and using Nooax or Dialectric grease the amperage burn the cable a bit. Less on 0 ought but will even do it on all my connections on extensions but still cut them back and clean them.
Been doing this for over 40 years.

 

A Dinse observation

I have an Arccaption TIG200P ac-dc with a "dinse" type 35-50 connector to machine. I was looking at the work cable connection and got to wondering about the contact of the tapered end. I measured the cross section of the BRASS male side and found the surface area was large enough so even though the brass is about 28% less conductive than copper... it was still as conductive as the maximum 50mm copper cable.

Somehow, I suspect the male tapered pin does not make perfect contact with the female socket... (Just my thoughts on these chinese connectors). However, It did appear that the flat "flange" part of the connector did in fact get pulled up tight and made good contact. That surface area alone was more than the equivalent 500mm copper cable. Plus there was some contact where the "dog" made contact inside.

I am more of a hobby welder so as far as I am concerned, even the chinese type dinse connectors are more than sufficient to handle the current. ---KenA

 

Re: A Dinse observation

I have an Arccaption TIG200P ac-dc with a "dinse" type 35-50 connector to machine. I was looking at the work cable connection and got to wondering about the contact of the tapered end. I measured the cross section of the BRASS male side and found the surface area was large enough so even though the brass is about 28% less conductive than copper... it was still as conductive as the maximum 50mm copper cable.

Somehow, I suspect the male tapered pin does not make perfect contact with the female socket... (Just my thoughts on these chinese connectors). However, It did appear that the flat "flange" part of the connector did in fact get pulled up tight and made good contact. That surface area alone was more than the equivalent 500mm copper cable. Plus there was some contact where the "dog" made contact inside.

I am more of a hobby welder so as far as I am concerned, even the chinese type dinse connectors are more than sufficient to handle the current. ---KenA

Ken makes a good point... I've never noticed any of these connectors getting warm as long as they are kept reasonably clean. That would be the first indication that you are limiting current flow...

 

Re: A Dinse observation

the twecos pin is split inthe center, and compresses when inserted in female (making contact). u can adjust w/ screwdiver/wedge the split, on const sites w/ equip driving around , or ppl can trip on my leads, i dont even twist lock them, i just shove them together, that way the lead/cable shears, and dont drag my expensive inverters w/ it. there good for more amps than my feeder or any power source id be using

 

Re: A Dinse observation

I used to sell the Tweco and Lenco LC40's Not much difference but some of the other import copies were very stiff and seemed to come loose on occasion. At Tweco we used to sell a Ton of Dinse to Tweco adaptors due to the Dinse style often working loose and getting hot or arcing in the socket. The Dinse style is anyone's guess. Take 5 of them and look closely and they are all a little different. Some aren't even interchangeable due to the lock pin being in the wrong location. Not a lot of R&D there.
I'm not too fussy and use all of them.

 

As HH and JPump suggested, I "think" the resistance is going to increase as the current increases. So measuring with a VOM when there's no actual current won't tell you much.

But I'm far from an electrician. Maybe WillieB or Louie or somebody will weigh in.