Just for fun I may go dust off the old tombstone (AC225) and run some beads to show you.

Do you have any pictures of your practice beads? Have you cut a cross section to check your penetration?

 

That would be nice & yes I have a picture ill need to resize it about afraid to let anyone see it. I havent cut it into but the back looks like they burnt in deep.
Ill get a pic.
Thanks Ron

 

Padding is a good learning exercise.
http://www.aussieweld.com.au/arcwelding/page5/page5.htm

This site will give you some pointers. Make sure you clean your flux off each time and wire brush also.

 

This is 1/8 in. 4 X 5 in.
1/8 in. 6013 rod -Amp 90- Lincoln AC 225 Arc Welder
How do I end a weld? Im still leaving dimples and holes?
What do I need to work on ?

Would really like to see some good welds with 6013.
Hammer down guys dont hold back
Need to learn
Thanks Ron

 

run individual stringers so we can see the edges, leave a little spacing around each one.

To end, just kinda "whip" a little circle or half circle to finish the weld.... can't describe it better than that.... you'll see it, feel it, and know it's right.

 

The pad weld you have produced is fairly well done apart from the end of bead/stops. The solution is as KRS says is to manipulate the rod in position -meaning that travel stops. Stop -Circle, Count 1 -2-3 circle and break the arc.

The result should be that the egg shape depression known as a crater- is filled. The pin holes could be that your sample plate (OR ELECTRODE) has been contaminated with oil or grease ,or even plain rust. I have seen electrodes contaminated by greasy welding gloves.However , I am inclined to stick more towards a contaminated plate.

The way to find out for sure is to weld on some fresh clean plate to see if the outcome is the same. Other than that I will say that you are starting to get control over the placement- ie 2/3 cover over the last bead every time.

You have had a coupe of lapses in concentration where the beads aren't exactly parallel ,but what the hey! you are a learner and it will come with practice. The rest of it is consistent and thats the name of the game when pad welding.


Ya done good
Grahame

 

Looks better than 90% of my students the first few times out. Keep practicing and you'll see a lot of improvment in a fairly short time. You've already shown me you have what it takes! Keep your eyes focused on the 5 essentials and keep your work angle pretty close to 90'. Crater fill as stated above. As I remind my students everyday- it isn't inches, but miles.

Great job.

Jim

 

Thanks everyone
I never cleaned the steel did not know I needed to but will.
Ill run some run individual stringers & work on my ending.

Talking speed should my bead be the same width as the rod on bigger?

 

This was my first attempt at something like that with stick. I didnt end em well, was happy just to recover from sticks and keeping the distance right. Im working on it though. Gonna give it another go tonight. Most of it is 6013 with a couple 7018 rods thrown in 1/8 on 1/4inch plate. Ive run beads before, but only in fun and experimentation. This was actuall practice.. heh.

 

I have trouble keeping my beads straight & speed some beads longer some shorter & need to get good round ripples.
I would like to see some nice beads with a plain old stick welder
Ron

 

Just wondering is the plain old stick welder like out dated now?
I guess Im way behind you all just a torch and stick welder
Ive seen some pretty welds here can an old stick welder make pretty welds??
Ill just keep dogin ya all
Ron

 

How big of a puddle should I have with 1/8 in. 6013 rod set at 90 amps.?
Thanks Ron

 

Sorry Guys
I have lots of ?
The last 5lbs. of 6013 (new)did not seem as easy to use as the old 6013 (was 6 months old)
The old stuff seem to start easier and the slag came off really good.
Thanks Ron

 

Hang in there. A few guys on this forum are big stick welders (SMAW). I wish I could help but I do mostly GTAW and GMAW.

 

Ron,
are you trying to use some kind of weaving or circle pattern?

First try simply dragging the rod along in a straigt line. Many rods will weld very well this way, the metal core tends to burn back within the outer coating, so that your arc length is automatically controlled to a nice short distance while you drag along on the coating.

Hold the rod perpendicular to the flat positon plate, and lean the top of the rod forward about 20 degrees, and drag the weld along. To tie into the previous bead, also angle the top of the rod about 20 degrees or so away from the bead, so the arc is melting the toe of the first bead and also the unwelded base metal. Ideally, in stringer bead overlay like you show, the beads would over lap 50% or so, and the finished surface would have minimal hills and valleys.
6013 is a good, mild arc, easy to run rod on an AC buzz box.
7014 is a great rod for flat position welding, it has an extra thick coating with iron power added, and is refered to a drag type rod, because it works great this way. With the current set properly, and the right speed, the bead is very smooth and the flux with gently curl up and lift off the finished bead as you weld. Try this rod!, then try the big brother 7024.

IMO, the type of stick welding power supply is not very critical to making good welds. I guess professional pipe liners swear by the old Lincolns, but for most people, you can make good quality, attractive welds with an AC buzz box.

Regarding the older 6013 perfoming better than the new batch, possibly it has picked up some moisture in the coating that is affecting it. I've heard/read somewhere about welders dipping their rods in water, and apparently it has the effect of increasing penetration due to the gas evolved as the water dissociates in the arc?

 

Im getting the 50 % overlay + now, i was going to fast just kept the rod really crackin and a 3/8 puddle.
Im going to build a pad & cut it, see how good the welds look -after I burn more rod hope I can get my welds straight.

Can some one tell me how forehand welding is done- are you pushing the rod instead of dragging??? If so how should I hold my rod same as backhand?

Thanks wish someone would show off some good beads
Ron Hicks