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My first Miller - Maxstar 150 STL

21K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  Davidbrown  
#1 ·
I just picked up a used Miller Maxstar 150 STL tonight. The only thing it was missing was the 230V-115V adapter. This owner claimed he bought it to learn TIG but never got the hang of it. The consumable kit still had everything in it. This machine is far short of what I really wanted (Was holding out for a sync 250) but I figured I'd start with this and move up. I do like the portability and ability to use it anywhere....now to find a foot pedal or finger remote
 
#2 ·
They are nice machines. Certainly will let you get going on tig while you keep your eyes open for a Syncrowave, Chances are you will be able to get a good bit of your money back if you later choose to sell it when you upgrade as well if the portability of a light duty stick tig isn't that important to you for what you want to do.
 
#3 ·
I LOVE those little Maxstars!!!!! I want to get a new one, but for a MSRP of $1,000 + tax, forget it! I'd settle for a nice used on on Craig's list, but I can never find one in my neck of the woods. Do I need it? Heck no, but I'm starting to buy and collect all types of welders. Just like I do guns......

For $1,000 + tax, I'd rather buy the Miller 211 mig........

Nice find you got though!
 
#4 ·
When you do get a pedal, I recommend you get a 14 pin pedal. That way you can use it with your Syncrowave. Miller makes a neat 14 to 6 pin adapter, part # 300507, round $35 or so.

Jason
 
#5 ·
there was a maxstar last nite on CL with two torches and foot remote for $800 i stared at for awhile......but lift start , no thanks. There's high frequency start tigs for less than 8 bills out ther , i only know of one small portable with it though.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, the lift start isnt perfect but the price was right to get me going so I wont argue.

I'f I'm not mistaken, the Maxstar 150 STH has hi freq. start with the auto-line voltage capability. I assume the remote still relies on lift start then current is adjustable from there.(?)
 
#8 ·
I've done a lot of welding with mine and the portability of it is a great feature. I got mine with everything but the stick holder and pedal. In TIG mode it will run flat out on 110v so it's good to have for jobs where 220v isn't practical. Mine is the older one without the exchangeable plugs so I just made up a few pigtails. I got mine barely used as well, in fact the owners tried it once and said 'screw it' because they tried welding stainless first time out without even reading the manual that came with the machine let-alone researching TIG welding procedures.

I believe the STH has pulse modes too, though unless you find a good deal on one the next step up makes more sense. I've heard decent talk about the HTP inverter TIG and since the Lincoln is made in Italy anyway, I would figure why bother spending more on the invertec. A friend got one and was ticked off when he saw the made in Italy. I figure when I get my next machine it will be a used Syncrowave. Unless I find a good AC/DC inverter at a good price. Otherwise if you are only welding steel the 150STL covers most work that a casual welder will run across. Only thing is that torch gets hot when welding long sections. I haven't been able to kick in the thermal protection once, even trying while wearing stick gloves over my TIG gloves. Only managed to burn the trigger finger on the gloves despite holding the torch as far away as I could while still keeping good control. It's a nice machine and will serve you well. The lift start is more convenient than scratch start and you get used to it. I got my pedal from SSC controls and it was shipped mighty fast. I wish I had known about the adapter or else I may have gotten the pedal that's compatible with the Dynasty too, since those are more popular. One of these days I will make up a stick stinger and see how it does with that.
 
#9 ·
I have one of them at home, great little machine. It will take 110 or 220 without any adapter as far as I know. I juts put a 220 plug on mine and plug it in. My breaker for 110 was weak and would pop at higher amperages so switched it to 220. No more problems and welds much better at high amps.

Welded everything on this car with that machine.

Image


Love the lift-arc feature, hard to use a foot pedal all twisted up inside a car like this. Got quite good at setting the amps when I was working on the car steadily.
 
#10 ·
I use these at work almost exclusively, and they are under rated. The lift-arc is so much better than scratch start, really easy to use. I see no use for a petal with DC welding with lift arc, unless you are in the really thin stuff (<35amps). We regularly exceed the duty cycle, and they last for years. I welded at 120amps for 1.5 hours straight, no problem. That W17 was on the verge of melt down, though.