You the man nice work
Powdercoated. Typo.....appreciated wasn't my typing......these darn spell checkers....
Lincoln 305G
Union Carbide Torch
Don't Worry About the Mule~
Load the Wagon!
You the man nice work
Wellllllllll, project has taken a little detour . . . or one could say a short cut.
I recently acquired a couple, let's say, less than pristine red face machines in a labor for machines barter deal. It was known up front that one of them had a locked up motor and it was obvious once I saw them that one complete unit couldn't be made from the two. Nevertheless I was satisfied with the deal based on what I was able to determine could be salvaged and the fact I was able to get the other engine running after freeing up 3 valves, replacing the American-Bosch mag that was sporting a broken cap/rotor with my F/M and installing a temporary "loaner" M-S carb.
The project budget is still suffering from a severe case of anemia that prevents me from carrying out the final sub-project of rebuilding the engine but I have everything else done that I can take advantage of as needed. As such and as the now running red face engine was showing no sign of previous front/rear crank seal leakage, I decided to put my unit back together using it so that I could at least get some history with the "donor" engine to get an idea as to its overall condition.
So . . . after pulling the chassis out of the shop and blowing/dusting off all the cobwebs, I started on the task of putting her back together.
More to come . . .
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Prior to oil and filter change
. . . and a few more . . .
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So this engine is out of one of the red faces?
The extra auxiliary outlet hole will be taken up by an isolated ground receptacle for a remote box. The smaller hole above it will be for the LOCAL/REMOTE selector switch.
Battery still needs to be mounted to the door.
I even acquired a single door in the deal!
Not exactly what I had in mind for her and she ain't pretty but sure welds as nice as expected. Now to get some run time on the engine.
Thanks for looking.
Last edited by duaneb55; 11-02-2015 at 09:47 PM.
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Yes. Had to put a rebuilt water pump I had in stock on it and used the new radiator that has been sitting in the shop for it.
As you can see, I also used the original block plate for the high mount starter (rebuilt) and had to use the original "right side up" oil filter adapter so the oil lines would clear the starter.
Used the red face engine governor but changed the operating shaft seal as it started leaking after running up to temp a couple times.
Used the rebuilt Zenith and installed the electronic idler with repaired idler board.
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Oh, and I had a good A-B mag cap and rotor and after cleaning/setting the points the unit off the red face sparked to life so that's the mag I used. The other engine had a F/M that's fully functional but I wanted to use the A-B just because.
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BTW, the other block is a bust as after having to press the pistons out with my 20T press, one cylinder proved to have at least a 1/16" deep grove corroded all the way around where the top ring held the water that got in the open exhaust for who knows how many years.
All four cylinders would have to be sleeved and 3 of the 4 intake seat surfaces (non-inserts) are so bad that it would have to be machined for inserts or sent to castweld for build-up and cutting. At $150 a hole for sleeves and boring alone (locally), I'd have to be real hard up for a block to sink that kind of money in it.
Not all is lost though as I've had a running "low hour rebuild" out of a Clark fork truck that has been waiting for the necessary front cover, block plate and other accessories to put together to prove out and utilize. I'll likely do a thread on what was required in mods to make that happen in the near future.
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Well you've been plenty busy I'd say. Good to hear it's all together. You do a lot better job than I do of keeping up with parts on long term projects.
Oh I had to look for a couple but worse than that is the fact I've used a few of the new parts I had for it on "emergency" repairs to other machines and haven't replaced them yet.
A couple items that come to mind are a starter button and idler solenoid boot/plunger seal but I had "serviceable" pieces I could use in the reassembly.
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I know the feeling. I had all the parts to update my shorty but they wound up on customer machines and never got restocked.
The build is shaping up nice, Duane.
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Long after the price is forgotten, the quality will remain.
Both of my Poppy's 1954 Short Hoods -Third generation to weld with it and teaching a fourth
SA 2## - Bought and sold more than I can remember or care to list, 8 in the shop right now
Glad to see some progress!
AWS CWI xxxx2171
1968 SA200
Visit Regulator and Torch Exchange, Inc. for all your cutting and heating needs!Originally Posted by WelderMike
Progress yes, but not exactly the way I wanted it to go.
Another time perhaps.
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Frankly, I think your machine looks great. It looks a lot like the first portable I ever owned, and is still a working girl, and that's my 64 red/ blue. While we all like to see the flash and bling, I regularly remind the kids that the looks of the bead is what makes the money, not the machine or the truck. Also I remind them that a good running piece of paid for used equipment gets the same hourly rate as the new 4 door one ton diesel, electronic wonder jammer welder truck does. I recently saw a rig for sale as described for $85k and couldn't help but wonder what that guy was thinking. Keep up the great work and as always thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience.
You won't get an argument from me on that piece of solid logic gundog77 and thanks for the kind words. I'm really not too concerned about it not being all pretty and shinny.
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Duane,
Any suggestion on how to safely remove the rust from the the lamination's of the starter armature?
Would this be good to insulate the starter armature with?
Thank you in advance for your help!
1972 SA200 Blackface
1948 Short Hood
HTP Invertig 221
Miller Trailblazer 302
Hobart Handler 175
Hobart AirForce 400
I was also going to use the same insulating varnish on the inside of the starter housing. It got some water in it at some point which caused a little surface rust, which has now been cleaned. Is all this necessary you think? The starter worked fine before pulling it off, it just recently started sticking so I pulled it off to see why. The was some dirt and grime where the starter drive assembly slides up and down. Any suggestions on lubrication? I saw on your rebuild a blue grease, ive read to use dielectric grease. Once again, thanks for the help.
1972 SA200 Blackface
1948 Short Hood
HTP Invertig 221
Miller Trailblazer 302
Hobart Handler 175
Hobart AirForce 400
First I'd like to point out that there is no visible signs of a varnish coating on the laminations because the factory hadn't applied any from the get go. Same goes for the housing although the field coils would have been sealed prior to assembly.
That being said, if I were to do anything to ward off any future rusting of the inside of the housing I would remove the field coils (IF you can get the countersunk screws to break loose) and give it a light coating of Rustoleum from a rattle can. If the screws won't break loose the get out a small foam brush.
As for the armature, I'd clean the rust of with a coarse sandpaper (80 or 120grit), blow it off and at the most give it a light coat of WD-40 or PB Blaster and wipe it down - if I didn't just leave it dry.
Keep in mind that varnish sealants are meant for coils to provide a level of electrical insulation and more importantly sealing from the elements to prevent a breakdown of the windings wire insulation coating and not intended as a rust proofing.
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Sounds like a plan for the rust on the armature.
Yes, the varnish was not got to be used as a rust inhibitor. My concern was the insulation currently on these parts being almost 50 years old, and applying the varnish would further ensure the longevity of the internal electrical components of the starter.
Would you have any suggestions for lubrication for the drive assembly and around the bushings (I believe you had some sort of blue grease on post #55)?
Thank you for the help and explanations. I had seen the varnish being applied on the armatures and and coils of the welder and generator and thought it would also apply for this application.
1972 SA200 Blackface
1948 Short Hood
HTP Invertig 221
Miller Trailblazer 302
Hobart Handler 175
Hobart AirForce 400
Forgot to address the grease question. I use high temp, water resistant wheel bearing grease.
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Save Second Base!