1/8" steel is probably the lower limit on thickness most guys with out a lot of practice can weld without blowing holes thru it.

I could make it work with 1/8" rods, but would choose 3/32" if I had a choice. Someone who isn't as good might have better luck with even smaller rods, say 1/16" or 5/64" rods to keep the heat down as much as possible.

Type of rod and size some what go hand in hand. With very small rods like 1/16" and 5/16" your rod selection will be pretty small. Probably be limited to 6013, 7018, and 7014 in those sizes. If you go up to 3/32" or 1/8" you will have a lot more choices in rod types to work with, but your skill level will need to be greater to work with the extra heat.

My 1st suggestion would be to go with 7014. It's an easy rod to use and will give you good results. 6013 and 7018 would follow close behind. Personally I'm not a great fan of 6013. I just find there are better rod choices to work with most times. 6013 is a shallow burning rod and that will help some with thin steel like 1/8". I'd avoid 6011 myself simply because it's a deep penetrating rod and in the larger sizes like 3/32" or 1/8" you will need a bit more skill to run it effectively on thin steel. 6011 is a fast freeze rod, so if you can handle it, it works well for thin material.


Amps will depend on what size and rod type you eventually choose. Most packages come with suggested settings on the box. I'd go with the middle setting in the range to start out, and then adjust from there based on how it's welding.


FYI, Lowes / Depot is the last place you want to go to buy material. 8' of material there will probably cost you what a full 24' stick might at a regular steel supplier. Most places will cut the full length down for a nominal fee, and some places will sell partial lengths. Add your location to your User CP at the top left and someone near to you may have suggestions on where you can get steel for a lot less than it will cost you at Lowes / Depot.

 

This doesn't relate to the topic, but I suggest you get your steel from a bigger seller. Buying from hardware stores will get you bent over on metal prices.

 

Thanks for the quick response!....Yeah, I posted earlier this week for tips on cutting steel, and got a lot of good info, including the price gap between Lowes and local suppliers. Lowes was convenient for my prototype, but I'll definitely need a supplier in the future.

I'm located in Lexington Kentucy...I'll add that to my profile.

Thanks again...its time to get welding!!.....or electrocuted, burnt....whichever comes first

 

I agree with DSW about using 3/32" rod for that thin metal you want to weld.

I do disagree a bit and think that the 6013 is perfect for what you want. You want a rod that does NOT penetrate the steel so much, as to cause a hole in your work piece.

I also LOVE 7014, but it's harder to find at the "big box" stores (home depot, lowes etc...). I'd "stick" with 6013, 3/32 with an amperage setting for you Lincoln buzz box at around 90 amps. 6013's need to run a little "hotter" than 6011's. I also agee by the way to AVOID THE 6011'S FOR YOUR THIN STEEL!

The 6013's produce very nice looking weld beads that with minimal practice, will have you looking like a pro on those 1/8" thick steel pieces. I do HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you PRACTICE running some beads first on 1/8", BEFORE you start welding up your project.

If your Lincoln machine has the nice "AC/DC" selector switch, 6013's are PERFECT for running on DC- for thin steel. In that case, the setting of about 80 amps on DC works mighty fine.

Otherwise, if your machine is "AC only," don't worry about it. Try the 90 amp range and have fun. Let us know how it turns out.
:drinkup:

 

I just found 7014 at Northern Tool locally. It was after 5 pm otherwise would have gone to to my LWS.

I'd be interested to hear how the 22 ga welding goes. I think I'd use mig or better OA or evn brazing if those are options.

 

I love 7014! I think in my own (non-professional) hobby/project welding, that it's better to work with than 6013 when it comes to deposition rate, slag removal, and bead "puuurty" factor. From what I've been schooled on is that 7014 also penetrates slightly. Errrr than 6013 and it works most excellent on AC.

 

I would not use 7018 because it does not restart well. It does not like AC either.

Enjoy your new toy.

 

I would not use 7018 because it does not restart well. It does not like AC either.

You apparently have never used "7018-AC." The regular "7018" doesn't work on AC, however "7018-AC" works perfectly on both DC and AC. It's one of my favorite electrodes.

 

You should try some 7018AC some time. They are designed to work on AC, and I even use them on DC occasionally for tacking, cause they restrike much more easily than regular 7018s.

John

 

Ok...I think I'm leaning towards the 6013's, in the 3/32 or smaller size range...I'll probably grab up a couple different types/sizes and try em out on my scrap pieces.

The angle and flat pieces seem almost weld ready, but the sheet seems to have a thin coat of oil, or some lubricant (rust proofing for fingerprints). Will I need to take this off prior to welding?

And one last newb question...... I've got an available 220 circuit, and wiring, that was abandoned when our new high efficiency a/c unit was installed. The best area at my house to do my welding (we don't have a garage) is out back in a bricked patio area (I know, not very ideal, but all I've got for now, unless I wanna travel 30 minutes to our farm....The wiring is 10-2 and and distance from the box to welding area is probably 50 feet. Ouch!.....is that gonna be an issue, even using these smaller rods? What usually happens when you weld at lower amperage settings?

If need be, I'll grab some 6-2 or 8-2 and rerun it.....that's gonna be some dough I'm assuming.

Thanks again for your help

 

The angle and flat pieces seem almost weld ready, but the sheet seems to have a thin coat of oil, or some lubricant (rust proofing for fingerprints). Will I need to take this off prior to welding?

And one last newb question...... I've got an available 220 circuit, and wiring, that was abandoned when our new high efficiency a/c unit was installed. The best area at my house to do my welding (we don't have a garage) is out back in a bricked patio area (I know, not very ideal, but all I've got for now, unless I wanna travel 30 minutes to our farm....The wiring is 10-2 and and distance from the box to welding area is probably 50 feet. Ouch!.....is that gonna be an issue, even using these smaller rods? What usually happens when you weld at lower amperage settings?

If need be, I'll grab some 6-2 or 8-2 and rerun it.....that's gonna be some dough I'm assuming.

Thanks again for your help

Wiping the sheet down with acetone will remove the oil. For stick it probably won't matter, but I do it anyways out of habit.


As far as the 220v line, check the breaker in the panel and see what it was originally set up for. My central air is on a 50 amp breaker ( not sure the wires gauge they used). 10 ga is usually rated for 30 amps IIRC, though for a dedicated welder circuit it will work for 50 amps. Even a 30 amp 230v line will burn 3/32" rods on that machine, though you might trip the breaker if you run near the top end of the scale on with a few 3/32" rod types. If so, simply make a note of your settings and back it down a hair and you are good to go.

I did used to have issues running 1/8" rods on a 30 amp breaker at my old apartment years ago. I found to keep from tripping the breaker, I needed to go no bigger than 3/32" rods.


Also there's a good thread here on making your own 230v extension cord that you might want to look at for ideas.

When in doubt, it's always best to have an electrician do the wiring.

 

... but the sheet seems to have a thin coat of oil, or some lubricant (rust proofing for fingerprints). Will I need to take this off prior to welding?

Absolutely! With ALL stick electrodes, you need clean and dry work metal. ....all electrodes but 6010/6011 that is. For what you want to do however, 6011 is not recommended. It leaves a horrible looking deeeeep penetrating bead. Stick with 6013's.

And one last newb question...... I've got an available 220 circuit, and wiring, that was abandoned when our new high efficiency a/c unit was installed. The best area at my house to do my welding (we don't have a garage) is out back in a bricked patio area (I know, not very ideal, but all I've got for now, unless I wanna travel 30 minutes to our farm....The wiring is 10-2 and and distance from the box to welding area is probably 50 feet. Ouch!.....is that gonna be an issue, even using these smaller rods? What usually happens when you weld at lower amperage settings?

If need be, I'll grab some 6-2 or 8-2 and rerun it.....that's gonna be some dough I'm assuming.

Your wiring for that Lincoln Buzz Box is too "light." The Lincoln Buzzbox needs a 50 amp circuit to run on the high end settings. You need not "8-2" or "6-2" AWG wiring. Rather you MUST use "8-3" or "6-3". IIRC, for a 50 amp circuit, the NEC calls for #6ga (6-3) wiring anyway if you want to do it right. You ABSOLUTELY NEED THE THIRD "GROUND" WIRE with that AC machine. Otherwise kiss your behind (or anyone elses that may touch your machine) good by should you develop a ground fault problem! A 240v "ZAP" with any amperage ratting can be fatal.

Spend a few dollars and get the right wiring size and type (6-3).

 

Wheres the Threads that state you can run a "Buzz-Box" on 10-2w/GND as it is a limited input machine based on "Duty Cycle"?
There are lots of threads oon this in the "Electrical" section of this Forum.
My 2 Cents

 

OOOPSS, guess he got electrocuted, has not been back.

I know it is an old thread.

 

I am an electrician and your best bet is to follow the machine makers directions. The label if it is still there will give you the input voltage and amperage