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Thermal Dynamics Pak Master 38xl

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Pipeliner

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am trying get my Thermal Dynamics Pak Master 38xl going again. I am looking for a power switch # 9-4248 and possibly a solenoid valve # 9-4605.

Another problem I have is the air line for the torch is bent flat where it comes through the top of the machine. I don't know why they didnt put a 90° on the top and then the hose straight off of that. The hose is just tired from being bent back and forth so much and I don't think it is getting full air pressure through it. My question is, can I cut this line and put a 90° bend on with barbed fittings and clamps? Is is a no no to cut this line - are there other things inside that can't be cut? Here is a photo to show my problem.

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This is the threaded crimped connection it has now inside the machine.

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Discussion starter · #2 ·
I was able to get a new switch and I ended up not having to replace the solenoid valve. I put it all back together today but it wont arc and cut. I put a long cord on it and I think maybe that is my problem. I used 10/3 SO cord about 35 feet long and it is set to 220V (it's dual voltage). The plasma cutter will power up, air through the solenoid valve and through the tip when I squeeze the trigger and I get a brief arc occasionally, but it won't cut. So, is the cord too long or do I have some issue with the torch?
 
#4 ·
Pipeliner said:
....when I squeeze the trigger and I get a brief arc occasionally, but it won't cut....
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with your plasma, I've got the Hypertherm powermax 380. Those same symptoms happen to me on occasion and I usually get warning lights on the face. Does yours have those? What "fixes" it though, is fiddling with the torch, sometimes switching out consumables. Hope this helps, I don't think you have a supply power issue.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
It's definitely not a power issue to the machine other than maybe my cord is too long at 35 feet. I will try cutting it to 15 feet to see if maybe there is too much voltage drop, but with 10/3 I don't think that is the issue.

It does have the lights, but everything I can find in the manual says either torch parts need replaced or possibly low voltage (maybe my long cord). I will try shortening up the cord and then replace torch consumables.

Also, to my knowledge the machine has never been operated on 220v - only 110v. I flipped the switch to 220v and wired it that way. The consumable list has a 20A cutting tip listed and a 30A cutting tip. Maybe the 20A tip is only good for 110v and won't arc with 220v? I really want to get it going.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I didn't rewire to 120 but I did look at my consumables closer. After seeing what the gas distributor and electrode looked like I really think this is my problem. I can't even get the gas distributor to slide off the electrode. The tip and cup are fine. Hopefully one of the lws still stocks this stuff for a 10 - 12 year old machine.

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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Will be a little while before I can get back on this project but I have high hopes of making it burn again. For those who may come across this thread in the future looking for parts, a Leviton WS402 - 40A 600VAC, rated 5HP@250VAC is a suitable replacement for the original switch. I will be back for more when I have an update.
 
#10 ·
Hey there, punch your consumables numbers into Ebay.I have a 100XL Plus that I am working on and all that stuff is available.Do you have a manual for your cutter?If not, you can get them off the Thermal Dynamics site for free.Service manuals too!Very helpful...good luck!
 
#13 ·
Pipeliner said:
Just a follow up - new consumables were all I needed and it now cuts like it should.
Click to expand...
I have alot of new consumables, they didn't help the problem..

Mine quit last year with the same symptoms. I called the factory and they said it is not supported any more. I have comfirmed the trigger switch is ok and all other functions appear to work ok... The rep "suggested" it is probably the pressure switch located at the incoming air source just under the top panel... If that part cannot be crossed over to another manufacturer then I will jumper it in the closed position..

My symptom is just like all the others complaint... it will spark/cut for a second or less...

I will report back on if I was successful
 
#14 ·
check your air pressure it might be to high. and it is blowing the arc out.
Set to mark on gauge with air flowing. 65 to 70 psi i think.
Second make sure you work lead is not broken inside the insulation and the clamp must make good contact. Pilot arc timer may turn off the arc.
 
#15 ·
ccawgc said:
check your air pressure it might be to high. and it is blowing the arc out.
Set to mark on gauge with air flowing. 65 to 70 psi i think.
Second make sure you work lead is not broken inside the insulation and the clamp must make good contact. Pilot arc timer may turn off the arc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips....

I did try different pressures..

I was able to jumper across the pressure switch thinking was was preventing tha arc to sustain.. No Joy..

I did use my ohm meter to confirm the lead wire and the ground wire were ok...

You comment about the "pilot arc timer" seems to be the culprit as that is the exact symptom.. It is will strike an arc for a slight second and then go out, I can keep the switch held down and drag the gun across the test piece of metal and it will intermittantly try to refire but it goes out again instantly....


Too bad the factory quit supporting it as it worked PREFECTLY till the failure and I am guessing the "pilot arc timer" in embedded in the PCB and is made out of unobtanium...

I have a box full of consumables that are now going to the dump with the unit... What a waste...


Thanks again for the feedback...

Ben.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
stol said:
I have alot of new consumables, they didn't help the problem..
Click to expand...
Just FYI I bought aftermarket consumables. The ceramic swirl ring was slightly longer than the OEM part. It wouldn't let the shielding cup screw all the way down (even though it felt tight) and the two pins in the torch head wouldn't compress to make the switch. I ground the tip of the swirl ring down a couple of thousandths to match the OEM and it work great.
 
#17 ·
before you give up, Follow the work lead into the machine. If you look at the diagram look for the resisters in the pilot system Also make sure the work lead is not broken inside the insulation.
Then just for kicks unplug the trigger leads from the pcb. short the pins and fire the torch.
Seen several torches with bad PIP and trigger circuits in the torch, that kept it from cutting right.
Put the parts up for sale you might be surprised.
 
#18 ·
Thanks again for all you guys feedback... My main beef is the fact the factory will not support the unit.. it is not that old either... It might be something simple I overlooked or a dead PCB.. I am in Wyoming so the freight will get pricey but if anyone wants it for parts, email me.
 
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