I am utterly shocked that something from HF isn't working right. They only 1/16" rods I have seen are 6013 and stainless rods. These are for real thin sheet, that's why I'm guessing other types aren't very common

 

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it was not plugged in to a 20 amp but was a 15 amp 120 volt outlet so 80 amp machine not giving full 80 amps is maybe understandable
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my guess is if HF 80 amp inverter is too far below 120 volts it maintains arc voltage at reduced welding amps. i have a Norweld welder that can run on 120 or 240 volts. on 120 volts, welding voltage goes down, arc starts are harder to do, cannot pull as long of a arc AND it trips the circuit breaker. Norweld welder welds actually pretty badly on 120 volts. on 240 volts it acts like a totally different machine
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so i am guessing HF 80 amp inverter defaults to better weld voltage but at less than max welder 80 amps. i will try wiring it to 20 amp circuit next time .
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with 1/16" 6013 rods welding 1/8" thick actually it welded very good but my guess is it was under 55 actual weld amps. i think it will work even better with 6011 and 7018 which Hobart makes 1/16" rod for
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i know it was not giving 80 amps as i have 145 amp HF tig welder too and with both set at 80 amps using 3/32 6011 rod it was a dramatic difference. plus when i tig welded with it i could see a much more powerful arc for 1 second until maybe inverter cuts back weld amps with 120 volt voltage drop. i get voltage drop problems starting a 1-1/2 hp milling machine too.

 

I bought some of those teensy weensy rods but have yet to need to use them on anything. If I feel like welding up something with SMAW, usually go to a 3/32" if I can. Today I welded up a ~13x13" fire/ashbox for my vertical smoker since the old one was too rusted to use, used 6011 on DCEP since the fit-up wasn't perfect.

 

3/32" 6010 and 7018 will be the smallest I'll ever need.

 

First welder I ever had (long gone now) was the HF 80 amp one. Since then, I've run 220 to the shop and had an ESAB 161, much better!!

I immediately did some mods on the HF welder to get the max amp output from the 110VAC. (1) ran 10 ga. wire off a 20 amp breaker on my panel. (2) Put in a 20 amp receptacle as well. (3) Next I upgraded the leads to 4 ga. After that, I could use 3/32" rods, 6011, 6013, 7014 and 7018 up to what probably was near 80 amp output. Welds with the 70xx rods were a bit cold. I tried to use a clamp RMS ammeter to see if it was indeed putting out the amps on the dial, but the readings were all over the place.

 

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i also have the bigger HF tig welder 145amps stick running 240 volts there definitely is at least a 25 amp difference in the 80 amp setting using both machines (80 amp inverter on 120 volts). the "80 amp" inverter does not weld different from 55 to 80 setting so i am guessing it is some sort of welding amp limiter if 120 volt input drops to far below 120 volts. they look like the got 10 ga wire in 120 volt input cord so i am guessing it needs 10 ga to outlet on a 20 amp breaker at least.
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using 1/16 rod at 50 amp or higher welding stick rod is red hot if used in all in one use so that confirms at least 50 amps which is probably using 15 amps at 120 volt outlet.
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with Tig i could see what looks like 80 amp arc for 1 second and then arc gets smaller and dimmer. basically looks like weld arc being auto reduced from 80 amp to maybe 50-55 amp.
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i also got a Norweld welder that on 120 volts will use well over i believe 50 amps on 120 volt circuit at 130 weld amps. usually it welds badly as weld voltage is so low hard to start arc and pull a moderate length arc plus it will tripped the circuit breaker relatively fast. Norweld welder on 240 volts is like a totally different welding machine. it works much better on 240 volt circuit.
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the HF 80 amp inverter instead seem to maintain much better weld voltage but auto limits weld amps probably based on minimum input 120 voltage which might be dropping below 110 volts when drawing more than 15 amps. it would not surprise me that it limits itself to 70-80 amps even with 10ga wire to 20 amp breaker
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works good with 1/16 rod which 1/16 6013 rod works very good with 1/8 thick steel. i will try the 6011 and 7018 in 1/16 possible get more penetration allowing welding thicker steel maybe

 

I've never seen any 1/16 rod other than 6013.
Before I got mig, I used it for sheet metal.
Tried it on my buddies 120 volt welder/conversation piece.
1/16 rod definitely runs better on my T-bolt.

 

HF lists 1/16" E6013 and 1/16" E7014.

 

Tractor supply has hobart 1/16 rods in 6011, 7014, 6013, 7018.

I tried em but they are just dmnd small for me to use. Try maintaining one rod diameter gap with those little things especially
since they are so long and flimsy they vibrate around the weld pool.

Went to cutting them in two pieces and using them that way.

 

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i ordered 1/16 Hobart rod in 6011 and 7018 from Amazon. i forgot to check Tractor supply. that would save me paying for shipping to just buy at a store
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i had no problems controlling 1/16 6013 and 7014 rod in length HF has them made to welding 1/8 thick 1-1/4 square tubing. actually welds came out looking good and rod for me was easier to control than using 3/32 6011 rod at 50-60 amps...... for 1/8 and thinner steel actually little 80 amp inverter worked good for me.
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i was just expecting a true 80 weld amps which with 3/32 6011 rod gives relatively high penetration that leaves a good bead even on 1/2 plate. so i am guessing 80 amp inverter does not work at giving a full 80 weld amps on a ordinary 120 volt 15 amp circuit but requires a special 10 ga wire from 20 amp breaker to 120 volt outlet close to panel box avoiding long extension cord if i want full power from it. i only gave it a 2 out of 5 star rating and noted lack of full 80 amps problem on HF customer rating web site. there was other customer ratings saying it worked much better on a 30 amp 120 volt circuit. but i did not realize they was talking about a lack of full 80 weld amps problem. i though they was talking about a drop in welding arc voltage which would make arc starts harder and limit pulling as long of a arc.
......it appears to maintain a good welding arc voltage but limit welding amps instead

 

I've only seen 1/16 6013 and 1/16 stainless 308 rods. About 10 inches in standard length packaging. If you blink when the arc is started half of the rod is almost gone. It takes a lot of practice to even get a decent looking bead.

 

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1/16 rod burns a lot slower and easier to control at 50 weld amps or less. above this they get red hot which would increase burn rate too fast to easily control in my opinion. also at 50 weld amps or less they probably do not give a rod end vibrating problem as i did not notice it

 

the the weld currents 1/16" SMAW rods use, you can hold them like a pencil with your fingers and not even get burned, lol. No dancing sticks anymore

 

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at 40-50 amps they might not get red hot but they still get hot........ at 50 amps i was able to weave and make at least a 1/4" wide weld. obviously they would be too small for welding over 1/4" steel.
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1/16 6013 seems to work very good on 1/8 or less which is when 3/32 seems to start acting too big a rod to use. the rod is expensive per pound, like over $20 per lb. there are more sticks per pound still they charge a premium price for "special" made rod
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since the rest of the world uses 240 volts and not 120 volts my guess is 1/16 rod is in response to little 120 volt inverter welders used in the USA where 120 volt 15 amp circuits are the most common. i welded with 1/16 rod as much as i wanted and never over heated welder or tripped the 15 amp breaker.

 

They have made 1/16 stick rods for longer than I have been alive. They are not very popular anymore since the manufacture of cheap mig welders and some manufactures have stopped making them because of the lack of demand . I still use 1/16 6011 now and then for jobs where I have limited space particularly for a root pass on some jobs.

 

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in 40 years of welding i have never seen them but i guess it depends on if welding store wants to carry them. first i saw them is in HF store 1/16 in 6013 and 7014.
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they work ok just not my favorite welding rod types. it will be interesting to note difference in 6011 and 7018 compared to 6013 and 7014
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i can see where if 1/8" or less thick steel they would allow welding at less amps and easier to control burn through or too much penetration.
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i only got HF 120 volt 80 weld amp inverter welder as i was curious. basically i am playing with it like playing with a toy. obviously i have a bigger welder if i needed to do heavier material. little 80 amp welder is small. i can pick up and grab whole thing with one hand.
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maybe one day they will make a welder so small that it is built in to a stick electrode holder and have a cable come out for ground and plug in to 120/240 volt outlet. or welder so small it is like power brick cord a laptop computer uses and welder is smaller than a common red brick which by the way HF 80 amp welder is roughly the size of a common firebrick. maybe in less than 10 years it will be smaller than a common red brick and have higher weld amp capacity.
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not likely a mig welder will ever be smaller than a common red brick unless it is like a spoolamatic mig gun and they fit power supply into it somehow

 

5/64" 6013 find at just slightly more amps . much easier to control

 

I have some 1/16 stainless rods from maybe 25 years ago, maybe longer.
In the right application they are pretty cool. Did some repairs with them a while back and the results can be quite good. Only had access to stick at the time. Customer thought the job was TIG.
Actually kind of fun to use.
Just another tool for your took kit.

 

I "rediscovered" my 1-lb box of 1/16 6011 rods when I was organizing my consumables. I don't have them in front of me now, but I think they are Hobart brand, from TSC. I bought them with the intent of welding some sheet metal, but they got put aside when I bought my Millermatic -- so I couldn't tell you how well they run.

 

Mine I ordered from Farm & Fleet, they have real good pricing.

 

Steak costs less than welding rods?

 

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welding rod has gone up a lot the last 30 years. i bought about 1/2 ton of welding rod various types and sizes to try 35 years ago which 5 years ago i threw most away as it was taking up space.
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then i go see what was $1/lb or $1.50/lb is $2 to $3/lb now and Nirod which was $20 is now $50/lb. a friend wanted a back hoe foot welded (cast iron) and it was $100. just for 2 lbs of rod
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i got 1lb of 1/16 6011 and 7018 on the way and should have by friday. Amazon is not the cheapest but they do deliver to your mailbox or door. of course you pay for the convenience.
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when i need more rod i will try tractor supply. i never would have figured they would have a better selection of welding rod than a local welding store and maybe cheaper price too.

 

It pays to shop around. I was having a hard time finding EZ grind MIG wire (ER-70S-2) north of the border... lots of deals on Ebay for the US, but they wouldn't ship north. I finally found the best price up here ( still pricey at $70 for an 11 lb roll) at Acklands of all places. I'd pretty much given up on them to have a reasonable price for anything. It's a brand X wire and I still haven't ordered it, but at least it's available locally. Freight, exchange, shipping and duty are real killers right now for bringing anything up from the US.

 

I hear you, we have fleet farm here, if I can get out of there for less than 100$, I feel like I got away cheap.

 

well i got the 1/16" 6011 and 7018 Hobart welding rod and tried on 1/8 thick 1-1/4 square tubing and at 50 amps it actually works pretty good.
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not much difference in 6011 and 7018 to the point where thought maybe i got 2 packages both 7018 ? even though one is clearly marked 6011. slag comes off like 7018 and welds look like 7018 welds.
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i got a 120 volt HF 80amp dc welder and it acts more like 60 amps at maximum. that is it is enough to turn 1/16 welding rods red hot easy enough though 3/32 6011 welding rod definitely could be hotter if machine could go hotter. i got on 20 amp breakers with 10 ga wire 3 feet from electrical panel so it is not a low 120 volt problem. easier to scratch start arc rather than strike arc. still if welding 1/8 or thinner using 6011 or 7018 rod it actually works ok.
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1/16 welding rods tend to vibrate a bit when arc first started and rods are the longest. i believe they are 13" long rods. if 12" long they would be easier to control arc starting. a little hard to scratch start arc not sure if cause of welding machine or cause rod is only 1/16 or both reasons.
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i tried 1/16 welding rod on thick 1/2" plate and it acts like even at maximum amps rod can take the weld looks cold that is 1/16 rod not recommended for over 1/8 thick material as it cannot put out enough heat. but as long as using on 1/8" thick or thinner steel it actually is easier to use than 3/32 rod in my opinion cause if nothing else i can easily run 1/16 rod at 40 to 50 amps.