I've always used my double flare or my bubble flare kit (DIN/ISO).

But it's been several years now since the last time, so if it were me, I'd cut off a chunk of line and bring it with the fitting end to the parts store.

It's been my experience that they can tell at a glance what sizes I need.

 

The last one I did ('63 scout) I just bought everything from rockauto. They were really cheap and had most of the oddball components, and I was ordering other parts so was already paying shipping. I just used galv steel because there's no salt on the west coast. I had to buy one piece locally and they only had copper-nickel. I thought it was almost too soft to work with, but I know most guys in saltland prefer it.

I used one of the chinese flare tools that has the two bolts that thread in to set the lngth and then form the flare. It wasn't right out of the box and took some work to use. It was quick, but I would NOT recommend it. The flares were always eccentric no matter how carefully I tired to set everything up. I finished out with an imperial eastman old school double flare kit that worked as expected.

 

This is all you need.

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I did one this morning. I was gonna do myself a favor and run to the store for right length. They got that fugged up so I went home and took a 30 and made a 16. I bent an exact clone.
Making them is ok, for Joe AVG thats not stocking I would be inclined to buy section and make it work, make one end if you have to. I have used rolls, they you need to stock nuts. I stock couple unions but I rather work with straight stock and factory ends as much as we can.

 

I cut tubing with a 1/32 wheel, sand it right square and cool.

 

Today, I would only use the Cu/Ni brake line, it's Much easier to work with (bends & flares more easily) and doesn't corrode at all...

 

re-use your existing fittings.
use a flare nut wrench when removing and installing the fittings so as not to round them off.
carefully use a torch on stubborn brake line fittings where cutting the damaged brake line is necessary.
watch the youtube videos and learn how to make the bubble flare - southmainauto channel.
use the ni-copp brake line as others have suggested.

 

What is the advantage to making your own vs buying prefabbed?

 

Cost. I went with prebent stainless on my F150. Ended up buying the wrong kit and had to make about 1/4 of the lines out of cupronickel and using a double flare tool. Apparently 4WD, 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel ABS, long bed, reg cab wasn't common for that year. I think most of the 4WDs were 2 wheel ABS with rear drums. I replaced the lines after I had one blow out. A steel line on the drivers side frame rail rusted through where road salt was kicked up from the tires. Took 20 years. Happened in the driveway before I put it in gear. I tend to pump the brakes, push down hard, then hold them for a sec to test them before I go anywhere (in everything I drive). Glad I did. Otherwise, I'd probably be buying a new truck. That line blew out without much pressure on it, but more pressure on the brakes that I'd use just casually driving. Had I needed to stop fast, I MIGHT have had enough brakes if I pumped them.

Also worth checking your parking brake every once in a while. I have drum parking brakes on the rear axle inside of the disc service brakes. I pulled the rotors off and the friction material had come unglued (un "bonded") from the brake shoes on the driver's side. Again, took 20 years.

 

Bring your old fittings or line with fittings to the store as Dave mentioned. I cut the line before the fitting and use a 6 point socket, never saw a need for flare nut wrenches doing it that way. On foreign vehicles you may need to use fractional size line with adapters to work. Nickel - copper is the way to go as it's much easier to bend and flare. I usually get the pre flared lengths and couple if necessary. You can almost always take up a little extra length in the bends. If you need a real tight bend next to the fitting, get the brake line forming pliers from harbor freight as it lets you make a bend right there and is handy for adjusting bends as well . When you work on older vehicles in Wisconsin,you get really good at line replacement whether it's brake, fuel or transmission lines.

 

I should mention I am a former mechanic at Oldsmobile and other various shops, so I do know how to flare. I still have my Mac Tools double flare kit, but just recently purchased the Temco hydraulic flaring kit. Also, I just escaped hellinois about three years ago, so I am all too familiar with RUST EVERYWHERE! That said I knew there were advancements in lines, just not familiar with them. I doubt I will be able to save the original nuts, as this was a hellinois vehicle. I also have a 2001 F-350 7.3 I used for plowing and I want to get it going again, after 8+ years of sitting. So, that's the reason for doing the research.

I will look into a roll of the Cu/Ni line. Is there any brand that stands out? or is it all pretty much the same?

My best friend, who passed a couple years ago (RIP buddy), was a complete old car gear head. Since he was so used to and good at lines, I kinda got spoiled having him do them all, for a dinner that I probably would have bought anyway. Now I gotta be a big boy again, stand on my two feet and get back to the job I never really enjoyed anyway! I guess I will teach my son, so he can do them for me!!!:laugh:

 

Had ruptures in the brake lines of our 1997 F350 7.3 Once when I was driving and twice while the wife was driving. The last time she was pulling the gooseneck with horses. My local mechanic guy convinced me that Ford lines were sh#t during those years and said he could replace them all. He moved away a few years ago, so can't ask him what he used. No problems with brake lines since. But had more problems with other brake components.

 

I bought a 25 ft roll of ni-copp brake line off amazon and i have had no problems with it,
it is installed and working.
you dont really need any tools to bend nickel copper alloy lines you just shape it with your hands.

 

Really, no need to use a bender to prevent kinks? I bought a roll off Amazon but haven't used it yet.

 

Earl's (now part of Holley Corp.) provides all kinds of DIY brakeline parts. A couple of links are --

Hardline & fittings "starter page" -- https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hardline/

Stainless hardline (straight sections avoid some of the hassles of straightening out coils!) -- https://www.holley.com/brands/earls...s/earls/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hardline/stainless_steel_tubing/

 

Thank you. I will save those because I think I will need them in the future for my 7.3

 

my 2001 Silverado 3500 dually 4 dr. rusted out under cab. looked on line and bought stainless steel premade. had all the correct bends and fittings. price as really reasonable. watched as mechanic installed them. easy peasy!!!

 

A tube straightener is handy for the coil or massaging mis-bends. Junk drawer bearings and 5 tapped holes. Spacing makes the tube snake about 5 thou out of line and it comes out the other end straight as an arrow.