[VPT]

This is the kind of ramp I originally thought the OP was thinking of.

 

[farmall]

There is a classic solution for working on dirt.

I use a section of mobile home frame to support my floor jack, then lift the vehicle and slide a rim under each wheel I need to elevate. MUCH more stable than ramps, completely mobile, works everywhere from home to salvage yards, and soft ground is no problem.

You can also "nest" different rim diameters for more height. I use wood blocking (4x4 pressure treated lasts well outdoors, especially when soaked with drain oil) too since wood doesn't crush much and is handy for shimming. I keep some aluminum rims for convenience but use steel for vehicles I'm storing or raping in-place.

I gave away my ramps years ago and if someone gave me a new set today I'd swap 'em off.

BTW if you are going to spend money on a lift, consider a wheel-lift wrecker setup for your truck instead. They are insanely useful for much more than towing. You can use the boom to pull bodies and frames (chain the vehicle to something solid), pick up engines and transmission from the ground to move them, lift vehicles to put rims or jackstands under them, etc, etc.

Used units are easy to sort out.

 

[bert the welder]

This is the kind of ramp I originally thought the OP was thinking of.

That's what I was picturing too.
The words "cheap" and "working under a vehicle" really shouldn't go together. 1" angle isn't even in the ballpark of being a good idea.
My Dad used to do the staggered 2x12 ramps. Cheap and heavy. Paint them to make'm last. If yer on gravel, drive in some #12 screws and cut the heads off, leaving about a 1/2" exposed. This will act like golf cleats to help stop slippage. Staple on some expanded or ever chicken wire to the contact surface for tire traction.
If you want "cheaper", you could use recycled 2x4's or 6's, 8's or 10's or what ever from a house demo and build with those. Orient them lenth-wise and overlapping. Nail and PL Premium. Scrap 3/4" plywood sides to bond them all together.
Hell, you could build forms and pour some concrete ramps. Bitch to move though!!!

Doing things on a budget is all good, but not at the risk of injury or death. Just not worth it. And if your considering 1" angle, I question your skill/experience as a welder. I'm not schitting on you, it's just 1x1x1/8" isn't even something that would cross my mind, so please don't take offense, just trying to help. :drinkup:

 

[Outnumbered]

buy this
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-LR-06P-Portable-Low-Rise-Scissor-Lift

and 2 of these
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/12-Ton-Foldable-Jack-Stand

Myself and a friend used this set up for 9years in a parking deck for onsite work at a major internet provider. Did the companies and the employees work. We did everything from oil changes and brakes to engines and transmissions on that scissor lift. He still has it and does onsite work with it to this day. All you need is a concrete pad. When not in use fold it up and store it. All we had was a 7 by 14 trailer.

 

[VPT]

Most scissor lifts block the entire middle area of the vehicle so you can't work. For the price of that scissor lift a guy could have an actual lift. Just sayin.

I got my rotary used for $1400

 

[Outnumbered]

I do alot of mechanic work and i cant afford a lift i cant even afford concrete. I am looking to build some 2 foot maybe higher car ramps that i will have easy access to under the car for exhaust welding transmissions ect....

Sorry I missed this part. We all have been there.

I worked as a cat mechanic during the day then on nights and weekends, I worked at jiffy lube and on my own in parking lots and barrowed garages. Make shift tents for a few years. Got really luck when I found a local fire department that had moved down the block, but didn't move there pavilion/picnic area(20x30). They rented it to me for $100 a month, with electric.

VPT the nice thing about the scissor and jack stand is that it is portable. If you don't have the place to bolt down the lift(like a rental or low ceiling), You can set up anywhere there is a concrete pad. With a trailer, generator, air compressor, and a scissor lift the world is your shop. Just get permission to work onsite first. A co work works out of a self storage place. His area is 15x20 inside and 15x10 outside. And that scissor lift works great. Lift the car up put the jack stands under it and then pull the lift out. Then you can use the lift on something else or have space to work under the car.

 

[Stick-man]

Hey stick-man exactly where did you find those plastic railroad ties?
Thank you in advance

They were left over/defective ties from the chitcago Blue Line project. A "somebody" from the general contractor said I could help myself. I took 16 and still have 6 or 8 left for future projects. They were manufactured by Tie Tek, which I just looked for their website and they filed BK.

 

[farmall]

I have a scissor lift but use rims far more often.

It's NICE for lifing welding projects though and might get a removable table top one of these years.

I also replaced the rear casters on my engine hoists with rear spindles from front wheel drive cars or trailer spindles, and replace the front casters with non-pivoting solid lawn tractor tires (any equivalent will do). Casters are for perfect floors, while my setup will pull a 460/C5 in a sandy backyard and works much better on concrete. If the ground is soft I winch the loaded hoist away from the vehicle using a comealong or electric winch on my truck. I lever loaded hoists towards the vehicle with whatever is handy. I have a bad back so I always find the low-effort way to move large objects. Note the pulley at the end of the engine hoist boom and the Wyeth-Scott cast comealong. You get a lot more range than the original hydraulic cylinder and can reach deep into engine bays. (Hunk of pipe over dead hydraulic cylinder makes a nice ramlock.)

 

[Doug247]

farmall, id love to see some close ups of that hoist

 

[Con27]

Maybe you can take some ideas from the Kwiklift. They arent in business anymore but somethin like that style may work well for your application.

 

[WelderBill]

These would be "easy' to build!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dcjw_VlX2fc

Since you don't have concrete. . Just put some plywood under each stand, and have enough for a floor-jack to roll on.

 

[mafiacustomz]

I checked and got all the specs their selling these for 259.99 a pair which isnt bad 18" total height better thin ramps. Im going to get some prices on steel and see if it would be better to make or buy when i have the cash.

 

[wheelsup]

6 ton jack stands lift to 23-24" normally. You can buy them from Northern or Harbor Freight for under $100 for 4 of them. Since you are on dirt maybe double up some 3/4" plywood to spread the load or something.

Your biggest problem will be lifting the car to 24". I went to about 20" when I replaced my transmission and it's a huge difference - you probably won't need the full 2 feet.