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how do YOU prep propane tanks for cutting?

24K views 23 replies 15 participants last post by  papasmirf  
#1 ·
I have ran across a few opinions here like filling them with water, argon etc. But I would like to know what method each experienced member uses to prep propane tanks for safe cutting and welding. Its probably something I will be doing in the near future and I would like to be sure and live thru it.

Thanks in advance
 
#4 ·
I have only recycled them, which entailed riddling them with bullet holes so the scrap yard would take them.

If its going to be a smoker, fire pit or something like that I would pull the valve stem and burn it, removing all the residual oil and what not from the inside.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I've been cutting numerous propane tanks lately. I use both plasma and a cutting torch. As soon as I remove the valve stem, I fill up the tank with water all the way up until it overflows. Then drain it and repeat this step three more times. Propane is heavier than air, but lighter than water. The tank will retain the strong odor, but I've managed to get all the gas out. Then I torch away to cut 'er open. No problems and I've drained, torched maybe two dozen or more now.

Recently, I made a thread here about a valve removal tool I made for those standard 5 and 20 gallon tanks. Here is the link. You can see some pics of the latest project too.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...-Home-made-propane-tank-valve-removal-tool&highlight=Propane+valve+removal+tool

One last thing, there should never be "oil" inside of a dedicated "propane tank."
 
#6 ·
It's not quite as dangerous as gas tanks, the tanks are meant to vent under fire. The least safe, but by far the most fun, is to open an inlet and outlet and throw a flare near it. If you get it perfect, you will get 15 seconds of a jet flame. If you are ready with a video camera, put a saddle on it.
The propane co near me cuts them all the time because that's the only way recyclers will take them. They just wash them out and go for it. I'm sure there are plenty of horror stories that will shut me down! They have a very smelly oil in them which is also somewhat flammable .
 
#10 · (Edited)
The tank will retain the strong odor, but I've managed to get all the gas out.
Vent the tank inverted so the gas settles out. Neutralized the methyl mercaptan odorant with bleach. Large thanks will have an oil residue which is likely compressor oil and methyl mercaptan. Get it on yourself and it will be adsorbed through the skin and you'll feel loopy and possibly slur your speech. Neutralize or pay the price... not only will it attack your nervous system but it will also ruin your shoes, clothes, and likely your marriage. I got some on my pants once... they hung on the clothes line for a year. The weather bleached them white... and I could still smell the odorant.

On a small BBQ cylinder if you add a little bleach to your rinse water you'll drive out the gas and neutralize at the same time. On large tanks you'll use a gallon diluted in 5 or 10 gallons of water and then roll the tank several times to ensure a good coating and neutralization.

On big tanks we normally leave vented inverted a couple days and dry with a few psi of compressed air. The gas is heavier than air so provided your tank is level it will be gas free soon enough.
 
#8 ·
I hook mine up to the car exhaust and take out one of the plugs in the tank. Run that a few minutes and do blackbarts test. Let the carbon monoxide take all the risk out of it.
 
#9 ·
Have to disagree with you - car exhaust is not a controlled method of getting the vapors out.
Heck, carbon monoxide is also flammable in the right concentrations.

Water filling is more controlled.

Throwing flares at a tank that you have now partially vented (meaning it could now have oxygen mixed with the propane) is asking for a boom, not a flame.
 
#11 ·
What is the bottled gas most commonly used to purge the tank? I'm in the early stages of oldtimers. and I have CRS.
 
#12 ·
Again, the most common way to purge is with liquid (H20) and not another gas. Why not go the simple, cheap, safe and effective way if flushing out completely with water? Has purging is a total waste of money.
 
#15 ·
I just did two as a matter of fact. Took both valves off, flushed each with water twice, emptied the water, and cut the top off one and the bottom off the other using a jig saw/metal blade, then welded the two big pieces back together for one large tank. The smell will be there but there shouldn't be any gas. I was attempting to make a large oil drainage tank.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I've been wanting to ask the same question. Not to hi-jack but my mom just had her tank (500 gallon)replaced because the date tag is missing and the lp company will not fill it any more. She wants me to ct off each end to make hanging fire pits. I once cut up a 250 gallon diesel tank with a torch. I took it to the car wash and spent several dollars washing it out. I took all plugs out and let it dry and then stuffed it full of news paper and wove a wick and lit it. The first try it blew the news paper out of the opening and the second time it burned up inside the tank. I no longer have the nerve to do this. How thick will the ends of an older 500 gal LP tank be?
 
#17 ·
I've cut a bunch anywhere from 100 to 1000 gallons. ALWAYS fill with water! I fill it by screwing a hose connection in and let the water run while cutting with the torch. Makes for a nasty cut but you can clean the cuts up after. Once the cut is about half way around you can cut the water off and it's ok. Be sure to have the water take up all the space ( no air pockets ). I cut into an air pocket once on a thousand gal and almost chit my britches!!:D
 
#20 ·
I'm tell'n ya, water flushed in a propane tank is good enough. The gas is gone once water has pushed it completely out by overflowing. It's not that scary.
 
#21 ·
Papasmirf it was CO2 I couldn't think of last post. Never valued my life that much so...... I always piped in car exhaust let it vent out one of the nipples I took a valve out of for a few minutes.