WeldingWeb - Welding Community for pros and enthusiasts banner

Joining dissimilar metals…. copper and steel

21K views 41 replies 24 participants last post by  Equilibrium  
#1 ·
This is the style of chessboard I’d like to fabricate only I’d like to use ¼” copper and steel flat stock as opposed to using only steel flat stock and enameling or powder coating some of the squares. Not my chessboard photos.
--





--
I see that brazing dissimilar metals can be done, http://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/about/blog/2013/2/brazing-copper-to-steel-with-handy-one. I have this exact TurboTorch Extreme set, http://store.cyberweld.com/tukitexx.html. The X-3B torch set came with A-3 and A-11 acetylene tips. I was thinking an A-5 or perhaps an A-8 tip might be better for brazing the board pieces together. Both are available online, http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-64406-turbotorch-0386-0102-a-5-air-acetylene-replacement-tip.aspx.
--
Would it be unrealistic to expect the chessboard to hold together if dropped on the ground after I’m done brazing the board squares?
--
Is there a better way to do a chessboard such as what I photographed above any way other than brazing?
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
raferguson> So far all I've done with a mini-torch is brazing when I repaired two copper trellises and the set I have didn't have the right sized tip so I used someone else's. No O/A set up for me.... maybe some day..... not too sure about that though.
--
12345678910> If I used all steel and plated half of the chessboard squares, would the plating hold up to being welded?
--
BD1> Ugh.... I knew it was expensive but didn't realize it was that expensive.... I was using somebody else's mini-torch and materials.
--
docwelder & MinnesotaDave> No TIG welder. Just a MIG welder. ;)
--
drujinin> I enlarged the photo and the neck and shoulder on the king and queen are very different. The pawns look "chubbier" and appear to have belted rims while the rest of the pieces looked rimless or semi-rimmed when enlarged as noted by 12345678910.....maybe some 7.62x51 and 5.56x45 in the mix of what was used if that helps. I don't know ammunition all that well.
--
Are you thinking of making a chess set? I could start picking up oddball cartridges for you if you are.
--
Davidbrown> I used JB Weld to glue marbles onto the tips of the copper trellises I repaired. It seemed to hold up well enough. Time will tell.
--
Bisteneau> Welding would definitely be preferred.... only thing is I'm limited in the tool department compared to someone like you. If I get backed into a corner and can't figure out how to do it the way I want to... I might consider gluing the pieces but then again.... maybe not... I really like welding.
--
DSW> It is a very nice chess set and I think I found the photo on a site called Etsy. It was for sale for several hundred dollars if I recall. It's the board I was interested in copying. The chess pieces were interesting but I've got something else in mind for those.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
DSW> I know zip nadda nothing about selling anything on EBay, Etsy, or Pinterest. We’ve never listed anything except used cars and that was on Craigslist.
--
Damascus steel is beyond beautiful… I looked online and it comes in some fabulous patterns that could easily be used for contrast in chessboard squares and it would sure solve my problems of welding dissimilar metals together. Pretty sure it’s not an option for me though unless…. there’s a Steel Fairy out there somewhere willing to slip bars of it under my pillow. Tournament chess boards have 2 ¼” squares. I was thinking more along the lines of a 2” square for the chess board I’d like to make as a gift for a kid… I honestly have no plans of ever selling anything I make. According to one of my brothers…. ¼” thick American Damascus steel would run me around $10-$12 a square inch. Egads…. pass the defibrillator quick!!! I’d need 32 2” squares of Damascus or…. 128 sq inches. I’d be out $1,280 to $1,536. Even at $2 a sq inch…. I honestly couldn’t afford Damascus. I’m going to have to come up with another idea. Bluing might work for the actual chess pieces and I do like the idea of copper or brass for the squares. Not quite sure what I’m going to do.
--
MinnesotaDave> “We still have to get you into oxy/fuel welding and heat tinting, forging, plasma cutting, tig welding, and stick welding.”
--



--
Psssst… You omitted riveting and casting. ;) If I could learn how to cast…. I could make the little birdies I want
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
MoonRise> I just printed off your whole post. I'm going to need help understanding some of what you typed to me. I think the problem is the only brazing I've done to date has been copper to copper and the soldering I did do.... was many many moons ago.
--
MinnesotaDave> Phew.... I'm safe!!!! I watched that video and can honestly say I've got enough jello molds and bakeware forms collecting dust as it is and I'm not into experimental aircraft so don't see myself having any interest in flow forming!!!! It was touch and go there for a bit before I permitted that YouTube!!!!
--
Droopy> I honestly don't know which direction I'm going to go. Too many great suggestions... yours included.
--
gxbxc> I am leaning toward bluing half of the chess pieces. Totally unsure of what I'm going to do about the board.
--
You found something in storage for moi>>>>? What is it.... a small metal computer fan.... metal cigar tube.... an old bicycle chain>>>>? Noooooo.... on 2nd thought.... don't tell me....whatever it is sounds dusty and rusty.... right up my alley!!! I want to be surprised. Whoever said diamonds were a girl's best friend was sooooooooo out of touch with reality!!! Thank you for thinking of me.
--
Chris54> I figured there was going to be a trick to brazing copper to steel or brass to steel. I'll get help with that.
--
I went to the product page. It was like being at a restaurant where they don't give menus with prices to women. Scary. I'm afraid to find out what a good 5 - 15% silver solder is going to cost. ;)
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I really need to get my act together and collect up all the parts I've gathered for a chessboard so far and post a photo. I'm probably about half way there setting materials aside for this project.
--
Ian Duffin> $290 for rod.... OMG. I'm sure it's the best of the best but.... I'm going to have to find another way. Is there any other product you can think of that might do what I want that's 1/3rd the price even if it can't weld catsh!t to glass?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Okay guys, I found this project over at Miller, http://www.millerwelds.com/interests/projects/we-build/home/project/8519304544.
--
The description of the projects states the following, "It is about 3 feet long made out of recycled materials including, stainless steel, steel, aluminum, copper, brass and glass. It is entirely welded using my Millermatic 175 with steel wire and my Millermatic 140 with autoset using silicone bronze wire. The bronze wire allowed me to weld the aluminum steer head to the steel ship hull. It also allows me to weld brass and copper to the steel and stainless steel."
--
Has anyone used this silicone bronze wire? From the looks of his project... he welded an assortment of dissimilar metals using the wire he mentioned and did a really nice job.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Ian Duffin> "My work pays for the tig rod I use, I just had no idea they made it in spools. I'll have to have them grab a small spool and try it out! " Would you please experiment a little bit with metals other than copper and then share how it went with me?
--
engineer1984> I've done a little bit of brazing. Mostly just repairing some tomato cages and a few small plant trellises. Soldering I did long ago. It's been well over 20 years since I worked with stained glass.
--
"Back in the day".... I believe came strips were originally used in the creation of stained glass panels. Copper foil is more recent.
--
BD1> no no no.... to a second MIG. ;) My 211 is barely a year old and is perfect for me. I am curious about something though that you or somebody else might have an answer to. Is there a trick to swapping out spools midstream without all the wire flying off the spool being removed? I mean if I buy a 2 lb spool of silicon brass wire to try... I wouldn't want to waste any of the wire on either spool.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
I actually felt the rim of a spool trying to find a notch to secure the wire since spools of sewing thread have a notch to secure thread when a spool is removed from a machine. I haven't noticed little holes in the wire spools. Perhaps I wasn't looking for them but I will now that you mentioned them so thanks.