As far as I know (and I don't know that much), it is safe to use NON-chlorinated brake cleaner. There is a sticky on this subject in WW.

However, you can just use acetone and be done with it.

 

I would NOT use any brake cleaner.

 

X10 on the acetone. If you TIG, you need acetone anyway.

 

One of the ingredients of non-chlorinated brake cleaners is acetone (typically 5-10%) which has it's own by-product issues when burned. The key is to make sure all liquid remnants of any cleaning agent used are gone (evaporated) prior to welding. I use straight acetone (found in the painting supplies) as most do but have used non-chlorinated brake cleaner on many occasions as well.

 

With the potential consequences being so Serious, I too would just avoid Brake Cleaner all together...

You could get used to using it, get the Wrong kind, and when there are so may safer choices, why take the chance?

 

OK, thanks. I've been using lacquer thinner in the past (seems to cut some things acetone doesn't) but this non-chlor BF just really seems to cut through EVERYTHING fast.

Better safe than sorry though, I guess. Thanks again.

 

i use carb cleaner to clean my glock dryes real fast would that work

 

Your deadly....

 

i use the spray gun cleaner
i was told you could non cloranated carb cleaner was the same thing
the quadratdra jet carb had a part plastic body i could be wrong
made to remove burnt on carbin

 

DO NOT BE STUPID, AND END UP DEAD OR WORSE, F'ed UP FOR LIFE!!! DO NOT EVER USE BRAKE OR CARB CLEANER BEFORE WELDING. ONE ACCIDENTAL GRABBING THE WRONG CAN AND IT'S TOO LATE.

It's simple, use acetone, have plenty of ventilation, and wear gloves.

 

I picked up two little oil squirter cans. You know. The small ones with the trigger to apply oil in precision spots, like hinges and whatnot.

Anywho, I use one for acetone applications, like AL cleaning, and the other for WD-40 when I use the carbide burrs on aluminum. Saves a mess, and saves me money, since all my Acetone doesnt evaporate.

 

I bought an acetone wash bottle.

Well worth the $8 IMO. http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/50129-s...50129-solvent-venting-wash-natural-polyethylene-jars-bottles-jugs-619-2946.html

 

I have used non-chlorinated brake clean for years. As long as your parts are dry before you start welding you will be fine. Just like acetone, you wouldn't want to start your arc if the cleaning chemical your using is pooled up on your parts or welding table. I only use brake clean because its readily avalible in our shop and I have never had a problem.

 

As long as we are on the hazard talk, DO NOT use penetrating oils like Kroil and the like with heat- the offgas is extremely dangerous!

 

I always use acetone at home in my shop. in a pinch, I will use lacquer thinner. At work I use electronics cleaner. It works well with no residue. This stuff evaporates quickly. That means you shouldn't have any residue that can interact with your gas or arc! I read the article about the brake cleaner. Be safe!!!

 

Using non chlorinated and you're one manufacturing mistake away from serious injury or death. Stuff gets mispackaged more than you would think. I don't know what kind of quality control they use for brake cleaner but I wouldn't think it would be super stringent due to the intended use.

 

I personally use acetone at home. At work I use the electronics cleaner in a spray can. I hit it hard to the point it is running down the tank! It evaporates quickly-and leaves no residue. Clean welds with no porosity.