i own 2 they are good machines
first one have been using for over 20 yrs
second one i pick up a few months ago
(still needs tlc, but got it to stick. just needs board work.. can be rebuilt for about 50 bux each)
i have mine on a 60 amp breaker and no probs
if its priced right i would go for it
whats comes with it ???

 

Nice to hear that the rebuilds are cheap!

From what I know it just has the power unit along with ground and electrode clamps.

Big problem is that I don't really know what "priced right" would be for an untested unit that may not be working! I've seen everything from $75 to $1200 for used units at the auctions.

 

The Idealarc 250 is a solid welding machine that will burn any stick electrode you can throw at it. It is also a capable scratch start dc tig welder.
On 230v single phase power my Idealarc 250 draws 70 amps max, on 460v it draws 35 amps max and on 575v is draws 28 amps. My Idealarc is a newer flat top model circa 1992. These are very reliable machines that have been made for many years. They are not small machines, they pack some bulk but are very solid welders. I've seem many of the older round top Idealarc 250's sell for around $500. IMO, that's a real good deal as these are $1500 + new.

 

Hello ColdOne, all of the other folks have given you the skinny pretty much as it is. Whether it is one of the older "tombstone" round-top machines or a newer one such as those in snoeproe's pics, those machines are pretty much bullet proof and will give you years of trouble-free service. At the school that I teach, we had 26 of the older tombstones, they were all late 60's early 70's vintage and none of them ever required any servicing outside of an occassional blow-down to get the dust out. As to your power, you pretty much answered your own question somewhat. The only time that you will likely run out of power and trip a breaker is when you are really pulling some amps, if you're a hobbyist you won't likely be doing that very often. At 100 to 125 amps output, I would guess your input draw to be in the neighborhood of 20 to 30 amps max. As the others have said, if the price is right, I wouldn't hesitate to get one of these for my home use. As was also mentioned, you could do a limited application of tig welding on materials other than aluminum and magnesium by simply purchasing a tig torch, regulator, and bottle of argon. If you wished to weld on aluminum or magnesium, you could find an add-on high-frequency unit and weld aluminum or magnesium. In either of these instances you just wouldn't have the option of variable amperage control, but you would still have a pretty decent welding set-up capable of many things. Good luck and best regards, Allan

 

Well, I guess that is it then!

My wife has agreed that you guys can share the blame if I spend my allowance on the welder. :drinkup:

Gotta wait until sometime next week to get in touch with the folks selling it. Wonder what else I'll find when I go to pick it up. Spotted a OA torch setup that I might inquire about as well.... So many toys so little time.

Chris

 

This is what works for me:
Explain to momma how with this new welder you can build that potting plant hanger she's wanted for so long now .....and that hand rail for the steps...and repair that broken fence gate...... etc etc..Next thing you know, she'll be making a list of stuff for you to do with your new welder.

 

what a coincidence .. i was just buzzin around Craigs list and find this very tombstone welder in san diego with the original cart .. idealarc 250 ac/dc .. check the one yer looking at cuz some are ac only .. So on sunday i go an pay the guy a visit , we plug it in and run it through some paces and it welds like a champ and he has all the original paper work in the original lincoln envelopes .. seems to be circa 1960's .. by the lack of all the lawyer inspired horse@#$@ warnings in the literature .. how much do you want ?? Gimme $275 he says .. i had that thing loaded and was on the road in under 3 min.. I wanted outta there before somebody came along and started a bidding war ,, weighs well over 300 lbs... No dents on it either but does have a horrible brushed on paint job ...

 

Going to pick it up this weekend!

It is one of the square top models, does both AC and DC. Ended up getting about 140 pounds of rods as well. I hope the 6010 and the 7014 will be usable, however I have doubts about the 7018. All was stored in a damp garage. The type code on it was K1053C. Serial number was really hard to make out though as it looks like the first two characters were stamped over each other.

Traced the wiring in my place here, and the outlet in the garage is actually on a 60 amp breaker with wire of sufficient gauge for it. For some reason, the previous occupants put an oven outlet on the end though. Fine by me!

Even better deal than I was hoping too. Offered $250 canadian as it wasn't working, however I expect it won't take much to fix. I offered a little more than I was thinking since the money is being used to pay medical and lodging expenses of the owner who is now in rough shape. Best part of the deal? The person handling the estate is refusing to let me pay for it unless I can get it working!

There was also a Oxy/MAPP setup that I picked up. Made by Liquid Air, with both welding and cutting tips. Looks to be in good shape and at $150 I was happy! Going to switch it over to oxy/propane though. They also threw in all the old aluminum filler rods, probably another 20 or 30 pounds of that stuff.

 

I'm thinking that the 1053-C code means that that unit has the power factor capacitors on it? That will reduce the primary amperage required to run the machine and less energy consumption if that's the case.

 

Dangit!

Managed to get the beast home and unloaded (thank you engine hoist!). Was feeling way too lucky when I found an unused 60 amp circuit in the basement that terminated in a junction box & second breaker & a hole already drilled into the garage. Ran the cabling for the last stretch (seller included about 30 or 40 feet of armored, rubber coated wire), checked all the connections and threw the breakers.

Wandered out to the garage, admired my new addition and threw the power switch... NOTHING! Well crap. Grabbed the multimeter and went to the last junction box before the welder. Hot to hot showed a whopping 0v. Each hot to neutral showed the same. Went to the main breaker box and measured between both rails. 0v again. each rail to neutral was again 0v. Looks like the owner started to have the house rewired to replace the old cloth wiring and never bothering finishing or having the new breaker box wired in!

No fun tonight, however since there is wiring coming in from outside to the breaker box I am gonna call a favor in. I have a buddy who works with the local electrical company. Gonna see if he can look outside and see how much work it will be to wire the box in. I am hoping that everything is ready and that the meter just needed to be pulled in order to safely wire the last up.

Hopefully by next week I'll be wasting some rods and grinning from ear to ear!

 

Hi everyone. I just bought an old "Tombstone" Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DC today. Looks like its in good shape compared to most that I have seen. Still has the three wheel cart and it looks to be in good shape as well. I want to restore it...Where can I find parts?

 

What do you need?
Have you tried Lincoln Electric?

 

The crank on the front of my machine is damaged...and I checked out the site but didnt find anything there. Im gunna call Lincoln to see if they can give me any direction. Machine runs like butter though. Love it. Only one small dent on the side. Shel be a beauty when Im done with the restore.

 

Heer name, is Tess

Got this beauty off of Craigs list for 400$. I love the ol' girl so much....Ive asked my neighbor who paints bikes / tanks to pinstripe her for me.

Yea, I know, Im an idiot....but gawd she's sexxxy.

 

Looks good, Darth! Mine is gonna be a sweet looking machine when I'm finished with it. I just finished replicating all the faded out face plates in Photoshop. That was a pain, but necessary.

Say, is that wheel painted gray, or is it just a matte finish on the metal?

Greg

 

wheel = rustoleum wrinkle paint


jd

 

I hope the 6010 and the 7014 will be usable, however I have doubts about the 7018. All was stored in a damp garage.

Use the 7018 for practice. Bake it since it's been sitting, then run beads. There is plenty of info on practicing elsewhere in the forums.

 

Have a chance to pick one up with a hi freq box for 100. Guy said it weld fine on lower and middle and seems a little weak on top end. What ya think?

 

Ac only machine? Or ac/DC machine? The hf box is worth well over $100 alone. Go test the machine out with the cash in hand. Bring a 1/8 7018 and a 1/8 6010 to burn.

 

I saw your post on the idealarc250. I have a similar machine but it is branded arcweld. Can you please tell me the Lincoln code/type from yours so I can find the Lincoln manual the corresponds to mine. My problem is that I want to reconnect for 575 v but I can't read the label. I also can't see the numbers for the capacitor connections. Here is a pic of the front of my welder

 

Paul your machine is Canadian built. It is different from the Cleveland built machines. Yours have the newer style lug insulators that Lincoln started using about 1980-81 so it might be newer than you think. A phone call to Lincoln is in order


Steve

Lincoln SA200 (1966 Redface)
Lincoln IdealArc 250

 

Paul. If your machine is a 230/460/575v machine, it's the same as mine. Type K1053

 

On the Lincoln website I can't find the reconnect diagram for k 1053. I am trying to reconnect for 575 v. I talked to Lincoln who sent me the manual for a 230/460 machine. As you said mine is 230 460 575. With the capacitor. Could you please send a copy of your connection Diagram?

 

Did you call Lincoln Canada in Toronto? Yours, like mine, is a made in Canada machine with the 575v option

 

Have you looked at operator's manual IM402 page 16 is this the connection diagram you are seeking?


Available here:http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-c...ic.com/en-ca/support/Pages/operator-manuals.aspx?type=name&q=Idealarc 250 AC/DC

 

Im402 has a connection board. Maybe it's just me but mine has all individual leads. So I can't really see how to wire it
Here is a pic of the connection sticker

 

hi people I got from my dad an old Idealarc 250 model 250-250 code 5188-c serial ac-190185. my question is that it would seem like it was burning well then it would feel like it would go cold. I checked my electrical connections I cleaned the connections and turned it on but my fan didn't come on. Do you think that could be my problem. And can anyone tell me what ohms should the motor read. thanks