There are some legitimate things that you point out.
But I will attempt to explain some of the reasoning and reasons why. A lot of your dislikes are actually likes from other customers.

1) As for the connectors: The connectors are mostly barb type so that any length of hose can be added to operate at extended lengths without special fittings or adapters to add lengths. There are some things though that we are considering changing. The hose you deem water hose, is acceptable for use with argon and air. It will handle the pressures and is easy to use. The quick connector has been popular and it makes changing torches a cinch. I cannot figure why anyone would rather turn wrenches to disconnect a torch. But everyone has their reasons.

The male quick connect fittings are available locally because we have had customers buy extra. Or we can supply them as well. A lot of machines these days are going to the barb fitting, particularly the imports as it saves expense. A few dollar here and a few dollars there adds up to the cost. We have to weigh adding these fittings versus the current style and if a customer would be willing to accept a couple of hundred dollar price increase to have all these fittings standardized. There are multiple types of connections on different machines. Some Dinse connectors have a pass through for the gas even. Keep in mind there are a lot of welders out there and a lot of variations.

2) The foot pedal is very controllable, however we a looking at a replacement. But you concern of tipping over the front when you go down on the pedal hasn't been an issue. In fact, I have never had that problem, but it may be a technique thing.

3) The water cooler connections are designed for our machine specifically, though the barb style fittings allow it to be adapted to any unit.

4). Just as with a crimped fitting, a hose clamp properly used will not leak. But also just as with a crimped fitting, improperly done, and they can leak.

5) The flow meter is in lpm. No its not CFH, this is true. But it is of decent quality and function. I believe the barb will screw out and you will find standard threads (at least that is the way it was) for connection with argon type fittings. It works and as long as one remembers that CFH is about 1/2 of lpm, then no worries. It is metric, but most don't mind. It does its job and it is a lot nicer than the ones "given" by other companies with their units. I prefer the floating ball type any day to the gauge style.

6) The lift start function of the machine is in line with other similar units. You may be used to power sources without gas solenoids or some units without hi frequency start. The function is designed for increased safety. No, you don't need to carry a foot pedal around with you. All you need is a contact switch. They are available if you change your torches and will usually attach to your torch with little problem. The torch supplied with this machine does have the built in switch.

An always "on" torch can present safety issues, as already mentioned, but also, the front panel controls are operated through the use of that switch. This allows you somewhat of a foot pedal control without having the foot pedal and you can control the upslope/downslope pregas/post gas cycling, and starting/ending amps. "Old" lift arc does not allow this and it limits controllability of the arc. This is one feature, that we probably will leave as it is, since it performs well with only a small addition of a contactor switch.




A lot of issues you listed can easily go the other way, but cost increases are not readily accepted. We have people trying to buy units for the price we had over a year ago now. We do our best to provide a competent, fully functional machine. Many times, most customers will never fully appreciate the machine that they do have, since it does have some many controllable features. However, we do understand the criticisms. We must weigh our accessory changes very heavily. Just as other manufacturers offer low amperage torches for machines that have much greater capability, we have to choose where we add product improvements and the cost increase/ benefits of doing so.

 

I saw your post has been up for a while, I'm considering buying the everlast powertig 250 ex. I was wondering how yours was holding up? How much you use it? and would you recommend it? Any problems with it?


thanks

 

Great review! i'm currently looking at picking one of these up myself. would you still recommend this machine?

 

Much of the above information is out of date. The new units feature new design, accessories, and they come with a CGA fitting on the rear. We still use the quick connects, but the funny thing is that Lincoln uses them as well for some of their product line so they aren't as contrary to the industry as it may seem.

 

That's because it's acceptable to bash import machines, but not Red or Blue.

 

I have a Miller 250 Syncro Wave
I have a MIller Dynasty 300DX
I have an Evertlast 250EX, up graded CK Torch,cutomized stock foot pedal. I do small repair custom fab work, The Everlast has become the welder of note. Blue ones gathering dust. AC aluminum is a breeze,

Bought the 300 after I had the Everlast thinking it would be an upgrade, couldn't get comfortable with the digital and menu searching, back to the anolog Everlast. I am old and old fashioned. Not smart enohgh for a Smartphone either.

 

Cope, most all the commonly NEW units I've seen in dealers stock except the engine drives (haven't seen any real new models lately on those) are marked "Assembled in the USA". That speaks volumes.

 

No. That's what's been happening for about the last year and a half. I even point blank asked them about it in a show. The guys were embarrased, but fessed up about it...and saying they were told by their lawyers that they had to because their product did not meet the legal definition of "made in the USA" on many units.

 

Where a machine/part is made(country of origin) does not qualify it as good or bad.
The quality is set by the specifications which is usually set by the bean counters in respect to cost/profit versus market pricing.

 

I agree... but selling a waaay overpriced item as "made in America" when it's not is just shady... to put it nicely.