[Project7Studios]

There is some missing information here - such as what type of radiator you are talking about.

There is a simple 2 core radiator and there is Double Pass radiator. The double pass ones - you shouldn't crimp off the flue.

You also have to understand that the flues are furnace brazed, where they put the radiator inside a furnace and they heat it until the flues melts to the tank. When you start heating that stuff up - you run into a whole mess of problems.

I believe it to be a 2 core. Fluid flows from top to bottom and back cycles into the engine. The radiator is completely made out of aluminum as well. I know the brass/plastic radiators are furnaced to melt the flues, but I am unsure of all aluminum radiators manufacturing processes.

I have fixed a bunch of aluminum radiators and oil coolers, usually much bigger than what you're working on. What I do is cut a section out of the tank on both ends of the leaking tube--sawzall works great--then weld the tube shut from the inside and weld the tank sections back on. Like I said, they have ALL been much much bigger, but has worked for me very well.

Im sure the larger the size the easier it was to work on! haha. The core for this radiator is about 2 inches thick. Makes the space a lot tighter. If I commit to this method, I will probably have to cut out a pretty large section just to get access to the leaking flue.
I definitely will try to avoid this process, although it looks like its my only option.

This is probably a candidate for a cold (epoxy type) repair. The trouble is, the radiator belongs to a customer of a customer and it probably will be difficult to monitor the repair's success.

With all that being said, it looks like Project7Studios is working on an expensive custom radiator, complete with welded tanks... maybe it should go to a radiator pro.

I have read of a method using JB Weld with a thinning mix to make it flow a bit easier. I pinch the flue, mix the JB weld, Mix in a bit of mineral spirits (or laquer thinner, i forget) to make it more viscus/loose and then pour it all over the pinched hole. The JB weld is supposed to create a total seal over the hole by penetrating past it but it also renders the surrounding area of the radiator useless by blocking air from passing through.

Has anyone tried this method?

I am worried now that this might be something for a professional. Thank you all so much for your knowledge!

 

[Project7Studios]

Ask yourself these questions and think hard about the answers.

When the repair fails whats the original customers response to your friend?
What's his response to you?

Yes he F'd it up, but brought it to YOU to fix, but your fix FAILED. Who's at fault?


If you were the original customer and someone broke your radiator, would your proposed solution be acceptable?


If your fix works, but the original customer thinks it's a "hack" job, who's going to make it right? Do YOU want to buy a new radiator for the customer, if thats what he feels is needed to "make this right"? Will you buddy be happy if he's got to shell out to get a new one because your "fix" prevents it from being done right? What if it fails in say 6 months?

I understand and agree with you whole-heartedly that I should stay away from this repair and make the tech buy a new one. Fortunately though, we are all friends (me, the tech and the customer) and the tech that poked the hole is completely prepared to purchase an identical radiator for the customer. The customer is aware of the problem and was willing to use the radiator if it was repaired. He doesn't mind coming back or dealing with the hassle of replacing with a new radiator if the repair did fail in the future. So we are all pretty understanding of the whole situation. I just hope to be able to repair it and save everyone some money. :waving:

 

[Project7Studios]

I can report a successful epoxy radiator repair. It's a semi-tractor that somehow picked up a stray stone or something that poked the radiator.

The repair was made with epoxy; the type that's sold in a two part "pastry roll" that is kneaded to mix it. I'm not sure of the brand name right now, but it's good stuff. Seems like the fix has been in service at least two years without a problem. However, the original leak was small, and should the patch fail the truck has automatic shut-downs for low-coolant or overheat.

Good Luck

Denrep:
Was the repair on the flue similar to my hole? Or was it located somewhere else?

Also, was it the same stuff people use to quick repair in home plumbing?

I am curious to gauge the success of using epoxy to repair this hole.

 

[Project7Studios]

If you attempt to TIG it, consider that the thickness of that tubing could be only .020" thick. That was the thickness of the tubing of an intercooler of similar (welded tube) construction to that radiator that I worked on. Better practice welding on some pop cans! (and get good at them too!)

Although TIG might be fun to try just to see if you can do it. Practice on some aluminum cans first... welding .020" material is a matter of fine control of the welding current on the low end. Use a small electrode like .040" and maybe 1-2 dozen amps. If you have trouble making a fine adjustment of the current knob in the very low range, you can make a fine adjustment of heat into the part by adjusting the AC balance, if you machine has that setting (turning up DCEP / cleaning setting will put less heat into the part, kind of like turning the current down by a little bit). And also rather than reaching for a common 1/16" TIG filler rod, you may find using a smaller diameter MIG wire more suitable for precision dipping. Hope this helps and good luck!

Also for TIG, yes aim your torch at the thicker header plate / end tank, as it will soak more heat away than the thin tubing. Intercooler I worked with of welded tube construction had .050" header plate, with .020" tubing wall thickness. This radiator looks of similar construction. And it is likely that the braize material holding the tubing to the header plate melts only a few dozen degrees lower than the parent metals, which you would not notice any difference between when TIG welding.

Practice on pop cans... Ugh. I seemed to always blow through them. I dont think my skills are up to par with this repair simply welding on the flue. I thought about just heating the tank and then creating a puddle with filler that would just kinda melt over and into the hole, but now Im worried about blowing through the flue.

I think instead of TIG I should practice with the Oxy/Act torch...

The MuggyWeld flux definitely looks interesting.

+1 on this. MuggyWeld definately does look interesting.

Has anyone used that product here?

 

[Project7Studios]

My vote?? Pinch it, clean it to the moon, and then using a small wire brush, scrub/ roughen the area so the JB Weld has a bit more surface to bite to. Don't thin it; it will flow enough in it's viscous form. Stir it up for several minutes, it sets off a touch faster with the extra mixing. As was stated, the corrosion factor makes aluminum really tough, and possibly really thin wall.

I think I am going to use this method. It sounds like the most successful and the least risky of all the methods discussed.

I fear that TIG will just ruin the flue and potentially ruin the radiator completely. Brazing/soldering sounds like it might work but with lots of practice. Practice means that I need to have an extra radiator made of full alum and braze/solder rods which I have neither of. One day though, I would love to have the opportunity to try to actually weld something like this with the TIG or Oxy/Act.

I will return to post pictures and results sometime next week when I get around to the actual repair. Thanks for everyones replies and please continue to offer ideas and suggestions!:blob3:

 

[Project7Studios]

Thought I would share a repair I did the other day
my first attempt on a radiator tube I did a little practice weld on a soda can first hole in right tube 2/3's from top of weld the rest to buildup smeared tube
was done at about 18 amps balanced .040 tungsten .035 filler

Whoa! Looks great! Pressure tested fine too Im assuming!

Wanna drive to Dallas and weld mine? haha

 

[Project7Studios]

Project7Studios, on yours being that close to the header if it is epoxy joined at the header the heat will most likely destroy the tube connection forcing you to cap off both sides of that tube I would use a good two part epoxy to fix the hole on the one you have

Very good point. It looks like Im going to be using epoxy!

I should have posted this on the epoxy forum perhaps? :laugh::laugh:

 

[Project7Studios]

Super late update but the epoxy worked! Jb weld worked great

I mixed it and shoved it down into the space around the hole as much as possible. Placed the radiator in an angle that would use gravity to optimize the coverage of the epoxy into/on the hole. Allowed it to dry, pressure tested it and bingo! Hole sealed!