Air raid sirens wailing, **WARNING, WARNING** Incoming used boat trailer, incoming used boat trailer, prepare for emergency surgery, notify lws, lst, lts, lbs, and all essential personnel, this is not a drill!

 

Here are some pictures of the "repair" I have been here on and off for a few years, is it taboo to talk about repairing trailers here? I may call the trailer MFG and see if I can buy replacement parts although they are more money than a whole used trailer.

This repair seems very straightforward, what am I missing?

Chris

 

Really!?!?

 

The "structural string" makes a nice touch.

 

I actually laughed at the seller when I saw that. Heck, he could have thrown in a few bolts.

So guys, are we just going to make fun of my predicament, or am I going to get any advice?

I am thinking about buying some 3x3 tube in the same gauge and welding a fishplate on either side. Does this seems like the right approach? I will cut the tube at a 45 degree angle to eliminate a vertical seam.

Chris

 

"but seriously folks"

When you cut back the tube, you will need to cut it back until you hit solid steel. Hopefully you will reach that before you reach the spring mount. If the tube is still rotten there I suggest you replace the entire rail from end to end. The tube may look good on the outside, but if they didn't get galvanizing coverage inside the tube it may be rotten all the way.

Be sure to grind all the galvanizing off at least 1" back from the joint, those fumes are definitely not good to breathe and make it harder to weld. I suggest you use a smoke eater if you have one or at least a fan to blow the fumes away from you. Even if you remove 100% of the galv. on the outside of the tube, the inside will/should be coated. If you can remove some of the inside galv. with a die grinder of even a file, it will be worth it.

A square butt joint would be fine but I also like the idea of the 45 deg.cut you mentioned, in woodworking this is called a scarf joint. You could also weld a 1/4" flat plate to cap the end of the tube, leave the plate about 1/4" proud all around and then weld the replacement tube to the other side, might be easier than trying to do a straight but joint.

I'd like to hear how it turns out.

 

"but seriously folks"

When you cut back the tube, you will need to cut it back until you hit solid steel.

I am going to get the boat up on cinder blocks and get the trailer out of there and see what I am dealing with. I will call the trailer MFG tuesday to see if I can buy replacement tubes. I could fab entire new rails but at that point I may just replace the trailer. I agree with you guys, the tube is probably rusted all the way forward. At a minimum I may repair it to have something to drag the boat around the yard on.

I would fab an entire new trailer but since I will use this in saltwater I really need it to be galvanized.

Chris

 

I'm with Rojodiablo. Strip all the good stuff off, axle, lights, etc. Get new steel (C channel) and fab new frame. It will take you less time in the end and you will have a much better trailer in the end. By the time you cut and splice that tubing it will take as much and you will still have a patch job. Then painting will also be a hassle.
If you build the new frame you could take it and have it powder coated. A lot of problems will go bye bye.......

Keep the pixs coming.
Glenn.

 

I agree with at the least, replacing the whole rail front to back. That tube is way too far gone to be good over it's whole length just doing a repair at the tail of it. The other side is probly just as bad inside. Tube is about the worst metal shape one can use on a boat trailer, too much rusting inside the tube.

 

Chris, I am laughing with you, not at you. :laugh:
I have seen one or two crunchy boat trailers in my line of work...

 

I gotta agree on 'C' channel being the smart choice if you replace the entire trailer.

 

Hot-dip galvanized c-channel would be best for a new frame. You can weld it with fluxcore wire without grinding off the galvi, then cover with cold galvi spray when done. Wear a respirator mask, work outside, keep head out of smoke plume, weld on up wind side of weld, all is well.

 

Yikes...

Is that a 'Bunk' trailer? I would recommend the 'same' when talking about 'stripping'' the 'entire' trailer. Honestly, the 'BUNKS' might be one of my primary concerns. If the Main tube fails, then the Bunk will come crashing down and will no doubt come apart as well... If the Bunk fails, the rusty main tube will likely fail from the weight of the boat falling on it. Either way, you're 'Hooped'.

I'd strip it, replace any rusty U-BOLTS, Hangers, etc and go from there... If you end up having to replace Axel, Hubs or the like, then I'd likely buy a 'good' used trailer instead. A single boating trip that leaves you and your boat 'stranded' on the side of the highway is going to cost you a LOT more in the 'short term' than building a new frame, or buying a decent USED trailer.

Just my .02

Cheers,

 

That's another good option; buy a used trailer that is in good shape, and adjust the bunks to fit your rig. Jman is right; first time that trailer and you don't see eye to eye at 50-60 on the highway...... things are gonna get real interesting, real quick!!:nono: