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Weld or Braze cast?

15K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  Meat man  
#1 ·
Greetings all, I've lurked here for a while. An unsuccessful search has lead me to making my first post.

Just for introductions, I would rate myself as an experienced home welder, stick and MIG, on mild steel. I'm OK on the "plain jane" stuff, but specialized processes and metals are beyond my experience.

I'm having a little trouble figuring out how to repair this bearing holder for an electric motor. The motor fell over backwards and broke the bearing holder into four pieces. Red lines in the pic show the breaks. I've got all the pieces fit back together good, just need to find a way to hold them there.

The piece is cast....something. The metal is magnetic. Gray color in the center. It will make some sparks when grinding but not too many, dark red/yellow if I recall correctly. I think it is cast steel, but not sure. I took it to a pro welder and he thought it was "weldable" but I didn't get the warm fuzzy feeling from his assessment. Cool guy and all, just wasn't 100% in the answer.

This piece doesn't really have any movement or handle any tourqe. It just holds the end of the motor amature centered, so distortion is a concern. It's machined to fit inside the motor case, so expansion is a concern.

I'd like to have the pro welder TIG it, but not sure if it will hold or if it will crack again. He mentioned nickle rod or even just MIG. I also thought about brazing it.

What say ye great minds? What kind of metal do I have here and how do you suggest I fix it.


Thanks for the input,

Nathan
 

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Discussion starter · #12 ·
I did a little investigating.

I drilled a 3/32" hole, I got a little bit of powder but mostly small V shaped chips. Looked a little like the chips that come out just before a long ribbon of swarf when drilling mild steel.

I also ground on it a little. I used a fresh grinding wheel in my 4.5" grinder (regular hard wheel, not a flap wheel) and a 3" pneumatic cut-off. I got orange colored sparks.

I don't really what to disassemble the motor because the windings are built into the case. This thing is 40-50 years old and I'm nervous about getting it apart. I'm actually using the windings and armature to center the bearing. I found that one wrap of duct tape and a couple of masking tape will center the armature in the motor perfectly. I had planned to stuff a couple of old gloves under the piece to be fixed and cover with welding paper, but I'm not sure that will protect the inards from the heat of either process.

I was actually thinking about JB Weld on both sides, but I didn't want you to laugh me off the board.

I had already planned to attach a guard over this piece (attached to the case) to protect if from future tip-overs.

Thanks for the input so far. How do my latest findings change the situation?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I did a little practicing with brazing this weekend. I watched several youtube videos and read some articles. I was able to make several adequate repairs on some scrap (not cast, but several different MS items) even tried my hand at some OA welding with coat hanger. It wasn't pretty, but it stuck - almost zero pentration...but at least I tried!

I preped the casting yesterday and plan to braze it tonight.

Oldiron2 - I should have explained a little better. I can remove the bearing holder from the motor, I was just worried about removing the windings from the motor (if I was going to leave the holder on the motor case during repair). When I decided to braze it, I decided to remove it from the motor to allow pre-heat, so no more worries.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Well for better or worse, the deed is done. I didn't have any issue with brazing the piece, except not knowing exactly what is good and bad. I guess I braze like I weld - gorilla style: big, strong, and UGLY. I think it will hold, but it aint much to look at.

I preheated using my charcoal BBQ with low coals about 300* (so I didn't have to explain use of kitchen oven to the boss). After I was done, I put it back in there to cool slowly because I didn't have any dry sand.

When I was test fitting, I got a little heavy handed with the piece and it all fell apart. I decided not to let that happen again, so I put on some light tacks with my MIG. It worked, but one cracked and several had bad porosity. I V'ed the cracks with my 3" cutoff and then opened up the edges a little with the die grinder and a stone. I noticed that the center piece was a little bowed in, so I made a small fixture to hold it in place. I had to pre-load the piece from behind. I drilled a hole in a plate and welded on a nut, bolt through the hole. I put another piece of plate behind the center piece and turned the bolt out to put some force on it. Like they say, picture is worth $1000 words.

Thanks for the help! I won't claim victory until I test fit the piece and the motor runs, but I'm closer.
 

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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Well, a big THANK YOU is due to all here. I declare success on this repair. I got everything assembled and wired up last night (in the heated comfort of the dining room, thanks to the recommendation of my loving wife).

I was able to hold the armature almost perfectly centered. I have .010" air gap on the bottom and about .015" on the top. Duct tape works wonders!

The brazing is still UGLY, but it holds. Bearing alignment is pretty good, but does require a little care during assembly or it will bind up.

Going to do an amp draw on it tonight, but physically it is fixed.

As requested, here's some pics of the finished project. This is a Hobart 200-A bowl mixer, originally used for baking and industrial kitchen work. I use it for mixing sausage meat. For the 1-2 times a year that I use it, hopefully it will last me a long time.

Thanks again.
Nathan