[Crete]

Sooo. I'm replacing the 2 5/16" ball on my receiver. It's a 1 1/4" shank. The nut on the existing one has worked loose enough that it rattles around and messed up the threads so I can't tighten it back up. I'm going to use a 4 1/2" cut off wheel to zip it off of the receiver. on the new one I will tighten it as much as possible with a 3/4" air wrench, also use blue loc-tite. My question is would it hurt to put a couple of tack welds to the receiver? Possibly one on the nut at threads also, to keep the new one from working loose. Thanks Crete

 

[user 9328330]

I wouldn't weld it to the hitch. Your plan of an impact gun and loctite alone should do what you want. I hand-tighten mine with a big wrench, don't use loctite and have never had one come loose. If you want a backup to that, cut the threads off below the tightened nut, maybe 3/16" or so. Then batter the end of them with a hammer so it can't back off.

 

[zapster]

That's what the huge lock washer is for...

I can't get mine off with the washer installed so I am guessing that the washer is missing in your deal...



...zap!

 

[VPT]

I've had about a 50/50 success with getting balls off hitches. 50% of the time the threads gall up and they have to be cut off. I have never ever had one loosen up with just the lock washer used.

 

[drujinin]

In northern states, they usually rust up so tight that you can't get them off. I wouldn't Impact it as any Nut/Bolt combination there is a torque spec. Too tight will damage the locknut. IMO a tack on the nut/bolt thread won't hurt the strength. Though I recommend against it.

 

[wnywelder]

Just use a long washer and a wrench. I have never had one loosen up using this method.

 

[AndyA]

I've always hand tightened with about a 2ft wrench. I've never had a problem with this, but I got curious.

A little googling found the torque spec for a 1-1/4" grade 2 is 500 ft-lbs, and 1-1/4" grade 5 is upwards of 1000 ft-lbs.

Most of the hitch balls I've seen "appear" to be made of better stuff than grade 2. So I need at least 500 ft-lbs and maybe up to 1000 ft-lbs.

There's no way I'm pulling 500 ft-lbs with the 2ft long wrench. I use a 3/4" drive torque wrench to set the lug nuts on my 5 ton truck. These are 600 ft-lbs and it's not easy popping these with my entire weight on the end of the 3ft handle.

So basicly I've severely under-torqued every hitch ball I've ever installed. And yet.. I've never had one come loose. I've never even seen scuff marks where it may have moved around.

My recommendation is tighten the **** out of it by hand with a fairly long wrench, then inspect it regularly. If you're really paranoid, maybe you can cross drill it, use a castellated nut, and install a cotter pin.

 

[AKweldshop]

Loctite, and impact.....

Get er tight.

I've welded up several, all the way around, that had loosed up.

 

[12345678910]

A hitch ball will be a hardened material

Adding heat will create possible brittleness and cracking.

I've seen some manufactured by welding onto a hitch for a one piece item, but that would be an engineered item with a proper weld procedure

There's a reason that they don't sell DIY weld it on yourself versioins


If you put one on that fits the hole properly, with a lockwasher, proper torque it should never come off.
Blue Loctite, and an eyeball inspection before each use it would be extra safe

If the shank is long enough, do a double nut jam nut.

 

[SquirmyPug]

Loctite, and impact.....

Get er tight.

I've welded up several, all the way around, that had loosed up.

Shh... Don't tell them you have welded hitch balls.... (I have welded a few also)

 

[12345678910]

If the hole is worn, you may have to put a bushing in.