[no_arc]

Is there a significant difference in the quality of a weld if the rod is pushed instead of dragged? I'm welding 5/8" dia nuts to 1/2" steel with 3/32 6010, and the bead looks "prettier" if I push the rod...........James

 

[Pressure_Welder]

Personally id use an 18 series rod as it would provide a stronger weld as per 6010 would. As far as fillet welding goes with a 6010 do whichever completes a nicer more uniform weld for your particular welding style. I would try a very small whip. Only thing i can forsee with dragging is slag entrapment if you are doing a multi-pass without griding out your wagon tracks. Whipping tends to reduce or even eliminate wagon tracks all together, if done correctly.

 

[pulser]

Let's see a photo!
Generally you drag stick rod so the flux does not get in front of the pool and get trapped. Vertical up you push slightly, but gravity take care of keeping the slag behind.

If pushing works for you and you don't get slag entrapment, then no problem. Maybe a little less penetration.

Pushing spray MIG gives a flatter bead but a little less penetration than dragging it.

6013 will give a much smoother bead than 6010.

 

[DesertRider33]

Neither. 6010/6011 are whipped & paused, or you can do small circles. Whip forward to dig, pause to fill.

 

[Oldiron2]

You mean 'push' vs 'pull', not 'drag'. A drag rod is one, like 7024, which has thick flux and can be 'dragged' along the weld, the flux keeping the arc length constant. That doesn't work with 6010 because the rod will short to the work if some gap isn't maintained, (at least with the smaller sizes; I haven't tried 1/4").

Are these hex nuts that are lying flat, or standing on edge so you need to get into the smaller angle? I'd also think another rod type would give a prettier appearance and as strong (or stronger) a joint, if you don't need to worry about flux in tight corners on short welds.

 

[tanglediver]

I never had cause to pick up E7024 until yesterday. I was asking "What the...?" That is more slag than I could shake a stick at and every time, slag got trapped in there, (note pic. one). So, I changed directions and dragged it from right to left instead, so I could at least see the leading edge of the puddle. You can see the first attempt from the right on the same plate in pic. one. That got it going (note pic. two). I left the bead too early though. But, I think I could muddle through now.

The third pic. is just some 6010 stringers. Pic. four is three 7018 passes. I got a locker full of 6013 passes at school, but no pics of that stuff.

 

[wirehunt]

With 7024 if you can drag it slightly uphill, I'm not talking much. The last two or three inches in pic two are on. If your on a DC machine try running DCEN, even better is if there's an AC machine around grab that and keep the heat up it.

 

[bennett]

have you ever heard this name "citoflex" (6010) ?

 

[tanglediver]

Thanks Wirehunt! I have access to AC, but I have been using a DC machine lately. (Lincoln V350 Pro inverter.) :blush: When they call for us to use AC, I'll likely be using a transformer based machine.
Bennett, "Citoflex", no. I am using whatever rod they have put in front of us. I heard they use Hobart 7018, but I couldn't say for sure what any of it is.
Tonight I managed a triple pass with 7014, no pic though.
I spent most of the night trying to butter up a vertical plate with 6010, it was not pretty! :jester:
My 2nd attempt showed improvement after a bit of some one on one demonstration by the professor.


*WARNING* Graphic steel carnage imagery may not be suitable for the feint of heart!





You have been warned.

 

[Oldiron2]

"Angel tears, my friend; I'm sure
Whether of sorrow or joy, they must be pure"

 

[casey_hill_1984]

practice your up hill on a slope first (about 60 degrees) to get a feel for running uphill, master this and then move to complete vertical......just remember always keep your puddle moving and stay in the puddle and youll have no problems

 

[6010]

When you start using AC you will see why they still make the 7024. You can make a very pretty weld with just a little bit of practice. If I have to use AC the 7024 is what I always use if I can get it.

 

[snoeproe]

Neither. 6010/6011 are whipped & paused, or you can do small circles. Whip forward to dig, pause to fill.

Exactly...6010 is certainly not a drag rod like 6013 or 7014 is. If you attempt to drag a 6010, your going to stick it.

 

[99trxrider]

I have never understood the "whip" with 6010 or 6011 I have always given it a slight weave or circles. With the whip do you whip forward to dig and make a crater and then whip back to put some filler down and then go back forward to fill the crater you have just made? Or is it always a forward whip?

 

[4421frank]

I found this problem too, it usually depends on the width of the gap you're trying to fill with the "whip and pause" motion. For larger gaps1/8" plus I have found the circular motion coupled with the "whip and pause" works great. Gotta say I love this rod and the 6011 as well. So versatile. No worries like the ones associated with the "low-high" rods. A little rust, or dirt ? No problem with the flash freezing rods. Just got done fixing a side gig, where it would have been impossible withouth these great rods

 

[DesertRider33]

Yes, you whip forward to dig, fall back and pause to fill the crater you just made, then whip forward again to dig... and repeat the cycle.

 

[bennett]

I read that 6010 require high voltage in open circuit (>100 volt)
I have 69 volt and I have a lot of problem using them (arc switch off in few seconds)
what's your Open Circuit Voltage? and how do 6010 work?

 

[99trxrider]

How far do you whip forward to dig? Thanks Desert.

 

[DesertRider33]

TRX, whip forward about 2 electrode diameters and pause back about 1 diameter. If you want to cool the puddle, whip further forward or whip out to the side, if you want to keep it hotter, whip less.

 

[DesertRider33]

Bennett, I'm not sure about open circuit voltage. I set the current (amps) and weld, the machine takes care of the voltage. Sounds like maybe you need to set the current a bit higher, or hold a longer arc, or try a thinner rod? Your machine is constant current output right?

For what it's worth, my XMT has 90 open circuit volts and a CST 280 has 77. I've welded with both of them and they stick weld equally well.