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Welder advice for newbies

196K views 97 replies 78 participants last post by  bevis28  
#1 ·
Perhaps an informative Sticky relating to “welder advice for newbies” would be helpful to new members/visitors. This topic does come up on a frequent basis. The sticky could address the more commonly used welding processes with their pros and cons, etc.
I thought this was a good idea, so I figured I'd kick it off with some links to a few threads I could dredge up of people asking about recommendations for a 1st welder. Most of mine deal with mig, if anyone can remember a few good ones on tig, stick or O/A add them as well.

Maybe we can get someone to write up a quick synopsis of processes and the pros and cons of each.


http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=43726

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=43744

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=43569

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=39087

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=37573

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=37226

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=31894


Maybe we can cut down on the repetitive "I'm new and need a welder..." questions. Yeah like thats going to happen! :laugh:
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Mig basics 101:

110v vs 220v:

110v machines top out at 1/8" steel max. Thats usually using fluxcore wire on a machine rated at 140amps. These machines are really useful for sheet metal and body work, but lack the power to produce good welds in heavier steel when used by the average welder. These machines also lack the power to be very useful at all with alum due to the low max output. The upside is that they are very portable and can be run from most 110v outlets. They usually only reach their max rated power however if used on a dedicated 20 amp line, so on average they run at a reduced power level on the average outlet. One of the big issues with small migs is that you can make a nice looking bead on thicker material that lacks penetration and has no strength.

220v machines: The "low" end machines usually top out at 5/16" or 3/8" steel with fluxcore wire or gas mig (both CO2 and C25). Larger machines can weld in excess of 1/2". They can be turned down to run thinner material easily. Many of these machines are designed to run a spoolgun for alum, and machines 200amps and up will run 3/16" alum+ depending on max output. The down side is they require a 220v outlet, similar to a range or dryer so are not as portable. There are some 110v/220v machines like the Miller MM211 that can run on both.



Fluxcore vs gas mig:

Fluxcore wire is similar to continuous stick welding. You have a flux coating that shields the weld and must be removed. It is messy and smoky and is generally the choice for outdoor work. It will tolerate a bit more contaminants than gas mig. Penetration is usually deeper than gas mig and is why most small "migs" are FC only machines. Also most small 110v migs only reach their rated thickness using FC wire. FC wire on thin steel is quite difficult due to the deep penetrating qualities. FC wire generally runs DC- so the polarity might need to be switched with machines set up for gas mig.

Gas: There are several choices for mig gases. FC migs converted to gas will need to have the leads switched to DC+ to run correctly. Gas mig usually is best done indoors or on calm days when a breeze won't blow away your shielding gas.

C25, 75% Argon/25% CO2: The usual gas mix for most migs with steel. It's the mix usually listed in the manual. Gives cleaner welds with a bit less penetration. Good for auto body work on thin metal as well as thicker steel.

100% CO2: A cheaper alternative to C25. Gives a bit more penetration than C25 so will often be listed for thicker steel on smaller migs. More spatter than C25. The extra penetration can make it difficult with thinner steel. Note an adapter or different reg is usually required to run 100% CO2 as most mig regs come equipped to run C25 / 100% Argon.

100% Argon: Used to weld alum.

Other mixes are available for spray and Stainless applications.


Alum: While many small migs list that they can be used to weld alum, welding alum using the standard gun is usually very frustrating due to the soft wire bending and jamming in the machine/gun. Mig alum usually requires a spoolgun or in industrial migs a push/pull gun.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Hi,

I've scanned through this thread and understand about searching from other forums I'm in. Thing is, I don't know much at all about welders and really need some advise.

I want to get a welder for my husband for Christmas. He's got a project car and has said he would like a welder. He initially said a MIG welder and I'm looking at a Hobart Handler® 210MVP as per the advise of a friend who has one. Last week he found a three in one thing at Northern tools. When I pressed him, he said it has a plasma welder but with a TIG welder and he was looking for one with a MIG. The combo thing is 700.00ish, the MIG 900.00ish. He DID say he wanted one that worked off 220v. 900.00 is the outer edge of my budget.

ANY help, advise would be GREATLY appreciated!
The Hobart 210MVP is a very nice machine and perfect for the home hobbyist. Plenty of power and the ability to work on 110v or 220v power.

If looking at an "all in one" machine on a budget, the new Thermal Arc 181 Fabricator will do mig, tig and stick.

http://victortechnologies.com/Thermal Arc 3in1/Fabricator 181i/index.php

I've seen them listed on line for about $800 for the base machine without the tig torch that can be added later. It doesn't have the top end power the Hobart does or the ability to be run on 110v power, but it does allow you to do stick and tig as well as mig.


Tough call between the two machines. A lot would really depend on his projects. Mig is definitely easier to learn. Stick ability would make up for the loss of top end mig power. Tig has it's uses for some projects. In my mind the scales are fairly evenly balanced.