The welder is only rated at 3/16". Most trailer frames ive seen are at least 1/4" or more.


I don't have a engineering degree my common sense sais inferior welds will break. When a trailer breaks it causes bad things to happen. You may be in front of the trailer but when the uncontrolled trailer sways off into the opposite lane or something you wont be thinking tack welds should hold. you will probably be thinking about that kid who just died in the accident.

 

Wait a while. I am sure DSW will respond. Popcorn ready.

 

I actually typed a reply earlier shortly after this was posted, but my wireless signal has been spotty all day again so I couldn't post.


Yeah the 140 is way too small to weld on a coupler. My suggestion was going to be the same, get it to the location you are going to work on it and then tear it apart. If nothing else get the coupler closed and tack it shut if need be. Option 2 would have been a bolt on coupler.

180 amp class mig vs stick with the Syncrowave... I'd say it's a toss up. The 180 amp mig probably has enough power if maxed out. The Syncrowave definitely does running stick. The big question is 1: which process does this guy do best at, and two can he weld decent in vertical up or overhead if required. Given a choice, I'd opt for mig, simply because I do more vertical mig than I do vertical stick, And I'd rather be on the slightly underpowered side with a good bead, than have more power, but run a poorer bead. Flat welds either one would work fine. If the answer to question #2 is that he can't weld well out of position, the machine won't matter.

 

I am only saying tack it so I can pull it less then a half mile down the street to the shop. I guess you guys are saying bein the welder here instead

 

what I'd do is before cutting the existing coupler off is to hook it up, get the coupler closed by whatever means necessary, chain it up good, and carefully get it down to your buddy's shop and do the work there. Or I'd bring buddy's welder to your shop.

 

That's a good idea, I can actually probably put the latch on as much as I can before where it would normally go down. And I'll weld the latch so it can't pop open

 

Any chance you could convert it to a bolt on coupler when you get it to the shop?
That when next time the coupler goes bad all you need is two wrenches and a new coupler and you can fix it any where.

 

I am sure I can drill four holes through the a coupler and frame and through bolt it. But will that hurt the integrity?

 

The proper way to do it, if you want a bolt on coupler, is to buy a bolt on coupler. From what I read the other day, you don't want to convert a weld on coupler into a bolt on. I could be wrong, but yea.

 

Ok ill just weld it. He has a Lincoln 180 mig and miller syncrowave tig . Which would b the better option

 

I'd pick the syncrowave and some dry 7018s.

 

He can definitely weld any position... He does mig and tig on a daily basic

 

If he is going to do it for me and he is as good as claimed.
I wouldn't tell him which machine to use.
He should know already how to fix it right.
"Unless he isn't that good?"

 

If you have to ask a question like this, seek a professional welder that has tons of experience welding this CRITICAL project.